The routes

1121
Routes in archive
Schwalbenschwanz
Climbing routes
Schwalbenschwanz - Marmolada d'Ombretta
6
The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least...
Don Quixote
Climbing routes
Don Quixote - Marmolada d'Ombretta
6
Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts...
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct
Climbing routes
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct - Marmolada Punta Rocca
6+
This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936, is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall, and nowadays the link up with the Direct Messner route in the upper section is definitely recommended. The first part...
Tempi moderni
Climbing routes
Tempi moderni - Punta Rocca
7+
Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers...
Via del cinquantenario F.I.S.I. (Gogna)
Climbing routes
Via del cinquantenario F.I.S.I. (Gogna) - Marmolada Punta Rocca
7
This route climbs a long series of slabs, corners, chimneys and cracks up the left-hand arête of Punta Rocca, the second highest peak on the Queen of the Dolomites. It is an excellent, beautiful and varied route that highlights the...
Soldà - Conforto
Climbing routes
Soldà - Conforto - Marmolada Punta Penia
7-
This classic route is one of the most repeated on the Marmolada. It follows a line up the South Pillar of Punta Penia, overlooking the Passo Ombretta, to the southwest of Marmolada’s immense south face. The Pillar is divided into...
Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
Climbing routes
Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale - Campanile di Val Montanaia
V-
Campanile di Val Montanaia is the most popular peaks in the Monfalconi group of the Friuli Dolomites, offering spectacular views of rare beauty. This historic ascent, carried out in 1902 by V.W. von Glanvell and K.G. von Saar, was achieved...
Nikibi
Climbing routes
Nikibi - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
6b+
A modern bolt route first ascended from the ground which climbs the smooth slabs of the tower. The route ascends a compact vertical rock face and offers great mid-grade climbing. Given the route's difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is...
Paolo Amedeo
Climbing routes
Paolo Amedeo - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
5
A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection...
Excusez moi...
Climbing routes
Excusez moi... - Lastoni di Formin
max 7b
A modern route through the center of the face, up grey rock to the right of Spigolo Priolo. Easier and less sustained than nearby Spiderman, the climbing is demanding with a 7b crux and obligatory 7a.
Spiderman
Climbing routes
Spiderman - Lastoni di Formin, pilastro di sinistra
max 7b+
Rock climb established in July 2002 by local Scoiattolo climber Massimo "Mox" Da Pozzo and his colleague from the GDF Cortina mountain rescue team Danilo Serafini. The route climbs the pillar to the left of "Super tegolina", and is paired...
Gancetto Felice
Climbing routes
Gancetto Felice - Cima della Madonna
6b
A splendid modern route in one of the most beautiful areas in the Dolomites.
Spigolo del Velo
Climbing routes
Spigolo del Velo - Cima della Madonna
4+/5
A splendid historic route, one of the best in the Dolomites. Despite numerous repeats the rock is still excellent with plenty of threads.
Rébuffat
Climbing routes
Rébuffat - Eperon des Cosmiques
D+, 6a max
A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.
Rébuffat
Climbing routes
Rébuffat - Aiguille du Midi
TD+, 6A max.
A historic route, probably the most popular on the entire face, which has by now become a crag above 3500m. The fourth pitch is fantastic, and the upper section offers numerous escape routes.
Contamine
Climbing routes
Contamine - Pointe Lachenal
TD+, 6a+ max.
Great cassic trad route, long, always interesting and well-protected. The face receives the sun and is fairly sheltered from the wind. Climbing is therefore possible from mid-spring onwards, and is best combined with a magnificent ski to Chamonix down the...


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