Tempi moderni - Punta Rocca
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Heinz Mariacher
Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers and the quality of the rock throughout. The outstanding style of the first ascent, carried out by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane in the early eighties, should be underlined: they free climbed the route using only pegs and natural pro, climbing all pitches on-sight apart from the crack at the start, which was redpointed second go during the first ascent.
After the demanding starting crack and delicate traverse the route continues up more easily to reach a difficult vertical section, starting from a slab and characteristic eroded holds. After the terrace at half-height the route climbs a series of stupendous and increasingly vertical slabs, to then reach the difficult final pitches – satisfaction guaranteed!
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.
AccessFrom Rif. Falier follow path no. 610 towards Passo d'Ombretta. Leave the path on a flat section and head up to base of the wall. Now traverse west to the reach the ramp: climb up this (grades 2 and 3) to the black slab and cracks and the start of the route (1.00 hr from Rif. Falier).
DescentTwo 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.
GearTwo 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.
NotesThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.
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