Don Quixote - Marmolada d'Ombretta
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Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts up a series of streaks, easy steps and grey slabs first leftwards than rightwards, to then continue up a series of fantastically compact limestone. After the ledge at mid-height the route becomes even more interesting, to finish up some incomparably beautiful grey slabs.
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue on past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016m) located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.
AccessFrom Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. The start of the route is located beneath the slanting small gully (circa 1 hour from Rif. Falier).
DescentTwo 50m abseils down onto the glacier, then follow the piste to the half-way station of the Malga Ciapela cable car.
GearTwo 50m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.
NotesThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.
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