Spigolo del Velo - Cima della Madonna
A splendid historic route, one of the best in the Dolomites. Despite numerous repeats the rock is still excellent with plenty of threads.
Take the SS50 (Fiera di Primiero - Passo Rolle) and turn off onto the track which leads up to Malga Zivertaghe 1375m (3 km). Continue on foot along path No. 713 to Rifugio Del Velo (2.30 hours).
AccessFrom Rif. Del Velo take a path downwards to the Ferrate del Velo. Ascend up the ferrata for circa 120m to the deep fissures (circa 20 minutes from the refuge). Scramble up the right (grade II) towards the arête, past a small spur on the right. After circa 150m the terrain steepens: belay on the large thread next to a small ledge.
DescentFrom the summit continue along the crest towards Sass Màor to a deep chimney (Camino Winkler). Beyond this two red arrows make the descent northwards. Bridge across the gap and scramble on for circa 10 meters (grade II+) to then reach a small terrace and the obvious abseil ring bolt. Two 20m abseils lead to easy scrambling terrain which, in turn, leads to a third abseil ring. Abseil for 40m to the scree slopes of the col between Sass Màor and Cima della Madonna, which is reached via a small chimney on the right (facing the valley). From the col descend the scree gully east down a series of rocky bands. Keep right at the first fork, then keep left at the second (scrambles Grade I and II, plus a series of 15m abseils down fixed ring bolts) to reach the final 20m abseil which leads down to the path and back to the refuge.
GearTwo 55m ropes, full mountaineering gear, quickdraws, kevlar threads, slings.