Vinatzer + exit Messner direct Marmolada Punta Rocca

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Vinatzer + exit Messner direct - Marmolada Punta Rocca

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Vinatzer + exit Messner direct

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

G.B. Vinatzer, E. Castiglioni, 1936; Diretta Messner: R. Messner, 1969

Planetmountain

Orientation

Length

800m (28 pitches)

Height

3309m

Difficulty

VI+

Obligatory difficulty

VI, A1

Route

This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936, is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall, and nowadays the link up with the Direct Messner route in the upper section is definitely recommended. The first part of the Vinatzer follows the obvious diagonal weakness that splits the south face of Punta Rocca to the terrace at half-height. The difficulties remain much the same throughout this first section, as the route initially climbs past the small overhangs, then a series of corners and then, via rough eroded rock, to the chimneys (often wet) that lead to the half-height ledge. Walk right (east) along the comfortable terrace to reach the Messner Direct finish. Twelve pitches of demanding and beautiful climbing up compact grey slabs lead first to the crest and then, following this SE, to the summit of Punta Rocca.

Getting there

Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit at Ora after Bolzano. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. n. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080 m.), nestled beneath the South face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). For the routes situated on Punta Penia, continue past Rif. Falier along path no. 610 to Rif. Contrin (2016 located between the Val Contrin and the Val Rosalia.

Access

From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610 towards Passo d'Ombretta. Leave the path on a flat section and head up to base of the wall. Now traverse west to the chimney and the start of the route (1.00 hr from Rif. Falier).

Descent

Return using the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or descend the glacier along the normal route to Rif. Pian dei Fiacconi, and from her to Passo Fedaia.

Gear

Two 50 m ropes, pegs, full rack, plenty of Kevlar threads and slings.

Notes

The grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.

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01/09/2008 Harald Swen Harald Swen

Nice classic with good rock. Vinatzer is well protected with pitons and/or protectable with cams. We took the left hand start (3 pitches). The easy parts of the Messner are not that easy to find, as you can climb about everywhere. Nice and well protected crux pitches. Should not be to hard to catch the last cablecar down at 16:20 hour.

26/06/2006 ivo

Grandioso itinerario classico, ben protetta, roccia super. Capolavoro da preservare e trattare con i guanti bianchi.

03/10/2005 Alex

Via bellissima!Per chi vuole percorrerla in libera, e senza bivacco in cima conviene essere ben sopra il livello dei gradi indicati nelle relazioni.

13/08/2005 Ziga Ster

Nice climbing in very good rock.At the beginig of rute we climbed left of the chimney it is very nice (3 pitch). Perfect climbing in Messner rute, we climbed for 12h. Descending on the right side of the glacier to lake .

Beauty

First ascent

G.B. Vinatzer, E. Castiglioni, 1936; Diretta Messner: R. Messner, 1969

Planetmountain

Orientation

Length

800m (28 pitches)

Height

3309m

Difficulty

VI+

Obligatory difficulty