The routes

1121
Routes in archive
Indurain tiene dos huevos
Climbing routes
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul
ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages
Climbing routes
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7c max.
A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding....
Schubert
Climbing routes
Schubert - Piz Ciavazes
6-
A classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted and the...
Roberta + diedro Buhl
Climbing routes
Roberta + diedro Buhl - Piz Ciavazes
6a+
Beautiful combination that starts up the first half of Roberta 89 to then continue along Via Buhl. The route follows a logical line up featured slab to a large corner located in the middle of the Piz Ciavazes face. All...
Jimmy
Climbing routes
Jimmy - Capu Aliri
6c max
Capu Aliri is a granite dome whose south face rounds off into a series of smooth slabs. The mountain is isolated, located high above the Tavignano valley, and due to its distance from Corte it is best reached from the...
Chanson de Pres verts
Climbing routes
Chanson de Pres verts - Rossolino
7a max
On the whole the climbing is less beautiful than that on Ombre e Lumiere, but some pitches are nevertheless interesting and worth doing. The route climbs the right-hand side of the tower, following a series of enormous steps up good...
Ombre et Lumiere
Climbing routes
Ombre et Lumiere - Rossolino
6b/6b+ max
Splendid granite climbing up incredibly weathered rock. The route climbs the left-hand side of the Rossolino pillar wedged in the narrow Tavignano valley and follows a series of fantastic corners and vertical walls with rounded holds. The route is equipped...
Symponie d'automne
Climbing routes
Symponie d'automne - Pointe de Sept Lacs
6a+ max
Symponie d’automne offers superb slab climbing above a deep blue lake. The first pitch is original: a traverse on a metal cable just above the water mark! The route then ascends easy angled slabs and the climb is never excessively...
Jeef
Climbing routes
Jeef - Punta di U Corbu
7a+ max
Significantly harder than  Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master...
Le dos de l'elephant
Climbing routes
Le dos de l'elephant - Punta di U Corbu
6c max
Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.
JPQ
Climbing routes
JPQ - Punta di l’Accellu
7a max
This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades...
Democratia
Climbing routes
Democratia - Punta di U Diamante
6c max
Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The...
Vinatzer
Climbing routes
Vinatzer - Third Sella Tower
V+
Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torre del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and...
Demetz
Climbing routes
Demetz - Second Sella Tower
V
One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto...
Les Intouchables
Climbing routes
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Elixier d’Astaroth
Climbing routes
Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...


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