Spiderman - Lastoni di Formin, pilastro di sinistra
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Spiderman
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Danilo Serafini, 07/2002
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
350m
Difficulty
max 7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
Rock climb established in July 2002 by local Scoiattolo climber Massimo "Mox" Da Pozzo and his colleague from the GDF Cortina mountain rescue team Danilo Serafini. The route climbs the pillar to the left of "Super tegolina", and is paired with "Excusez moi ... la va de qua?”, the other route established in August 2002 by Massimo Da Pozzo with Bruno Sartorelli .The style is the same as ever: long pitches, the ‘right’ pro, never abundant. Obligatory climbing from one bolt to the next, with no chance of aiding. Although not extreme, the route requires a certain degree of fitness. Good rock quality in a superb setting.
Getting there
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino. Access
Park the car a few hairpin bends below Passo Giau, towards Cortina, and take path #436 towards Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that spill down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to reach the base of the wall. Allow about an hour for the walk-in. Descent
Abseil down the route (minimum 2 x 55m ropes) or reach the Formin col at the foot of Croda da Lago, then follow the path south and traverse right below the face to reach Forcella Giau and return to the approach path. Gear
Small and mid sized friends (see topo, 2 55m ropes, ideally 60m ropes, a dozen quickdraws.
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino. Access
Park the car a few hairpin bends below Passo Giau, towards Cortina, and take path #436 towards Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that spill down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to reach the base of the wall. Allow about an hour for the walk-in. Descent
Abseil down the route (minimum 2 x 55m ropes) or reach the Formin col at the foot of Croda da Lago, then follow the path south and traverse right below the face to reach Forcella Giau and return to the approach path. Gear
Small and mid sized friends (see topo, 2 55m ropes, ideally 60m ropes, a dozen quickdraws.
Comments
18/12/2008 meddon
via molto bella,spessoi buchi sono umidi a causa dell'esposizione a nord.i 2 tiri di 7b sono impegnativi,
12/10/2005 edoardo demarchi
Via con tiri molto belli e chiodatura lontana - in particolare sui tiri sotto il 7b - in verità un filo "regalati", così come l'obbligatorio (un buon 6c+ - non certo 7b)Sul tiro di 7b+ c'è l'unico tratto marcio e un po' pericoloso (fino al primo spit) - poi obbligatorio mentale su placca verticale!Da fare con clima caldo e asciutto perchè la via è all'ombra fino a fine pomeriggio
20/06/2005 edoardo demarchi
Bella via; un filo più dura di Excusez...ma non troppoLa parete non sembra Ovest, ma Nord Ovest pieno e gli ultimi tiri sono all'ombra fin dopo le 5 di seraLa spittatura è piuttosto lunga e garantisce qualche emozione, ma l'obbligatorio non supera il 6c+Roccia buona su quasi tutti i tiri, ma prestate attenzione al terzo(7b+): prima di moschettonare il primo spit c'è una lama pericolante che si sbriciola, soprattutto se presa in basso
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Danilo Serafini, 07/2002
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
350m
Difficulty
max 7b+
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
