The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
4Matic - Laaser Ferner Wand
WI5
4Matic is a moderate, never particularly demanding ice climb on Laaser Ferner Wand. It can be considered an interesting alternative to the existing routes, Defender and Blue Wave (both established by Roland Math and Thomas Hofer, 2016).
Laaser Ferner is a...
Cadeau de Noël - Aiguille du Toula
TD-, AI4+/5, M4
A pleasant couloir on Aiguille du Toula just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Five fun pitches on ice, compressed snow and some mixed pitches.
Hybrid - Mur de Pisciadù
M8+, WI6
Interesting modern mixed climb to the left of the historic summer route Schwarze Wand and, in winter, the Mur de Pisciadù Eisfall.
Birthday Crack - Langental
M5+ WI5
This striking dihedral/corner had caught my attention a few times in the past, but I could never see much ice and so I never managed to explore it. However, when Mathieu flew over it with his paraglider and got a good view of how...
C'est trop facile - Aiguille du Toula
TD-, M6 e AI4+
A pleasant narrow couloir just a stone's throw from the Skyway cable car. Six pitches lead past difficulties in the region of TD-, M6 and AI4+ to the 3,534-meter summit of Aiguille de Toule.
La chula - Val Travenanzes
WI 5+
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb with a slightly overhanging exit.
Todo me parece bonito - Val Travenanzes
WI 5
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb that ascends the drip its the left.
Cataluña Express - Val Travenanzes
M5+ / WI4+
Cataluña Express starts with a mixed pitch which without cams becomes even more satisfying, and then finishes more easily up water ice.
Toxic Mushroom - Mont Noir de Peutérey
ED+, M8, AI 5+
A magnificent mixed climb with superb quality rock on the east face of the huge shield on Mont Noir de Peutérey. Every pitch is worth climbing and highly satisfying.
La Concha de la lora - Crozzon di Val d'Agola
WI4+M7 R4 IV
Top-class line on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola, with beautiful climbing, at times quite difficult and exposed.
Couloir Noire - Mont Noir de Peutérey
AI4, M5
Interesting mixed climbing on the NE Face of Mont Noir de Peuterey. Pitches of ice and compact snow lead to into the steep snow couloir, while the upper section provides pleasant mixed climbing through the gully to reach the ridge...
La Penultima - Elferkofel
WI4 M5+
Beautiful and varied mixed climb on Elferkofel / Cima Undici in the Sexten Dolomites. The route climbs an obvious up to the Cengia degli Alpini ledge and ends here. Thos ewishing to repat the route are advised to take cams,...
La Cascata dell'Arbiére - Becca des Arbiére
WI4
Not a particularly difficult ice climb but in a wild mountain environment with a complex and long approach in the Saint-Barthélemy valley in the Aosta Valley.
Ein Tag zum Träumen - Langental
WI6 M7
Ein Tag zum Träumen, a dream day. Probably the longest ice climb in the entire Langental, it receives the sun almost all day. Perfect conditions are needed to make an ascent possible.
Ecofly - Valle Argentera
WI5+, M7
This mixed climb rarely comes into condition. Located to the left of Coboldo Caustico, it shares the the first pitch and a half. The mixed section is protected with bolts and breaches good quality rock. However, as always take great care...
Gitanes bleu - Monte Taburlo
WI5, M6+
Interesting mixed climb on the north face of Monte Taburlo in the Ampezzo Dolomites. Three initial pitches, not particularly difficult but not to be underestimated, are followed by majestic ice pitches. The most exciting pitch is certainly the first frozen wall, 50 steep...
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