The routes

Climbing routes

623
Routes in archive
4 giorni una estate
4 giorni una estate - Sass Pordoi
7a
A great route that climbs up the imposing West Face of the Sass Pordoi, to the left of Abram. The route takes a direct and extremely exposed line up excellent rock.The route was climbed from the ground up over an...
Regenbogen
Regenbogen - Torre delle Mesules Est
7
The route climbs up the left-hand side of the rock face and reaches the top of an obvious detached tower before continuing up a nice vertical face. Regenbogen has one section which is more demanding than nearby  - and more...
Non ci resta che piangere
Non ci resta che piangere - Piz Ciavazes
7a/A2
The route climbs between the obvious corner taken by Via Zeni and the arete of Via Italia 61, up a series of slabs and two alrge overhangs. The climbing is technical on yellow and grey limestone which is almost...
Malsiner Moroder
Malsiner Moroder - Fourth Sella Tower
V/VI
This classic route is not particularly popular, but unjustifiably so. It takes a central line up the solid yellow grey slabs and the middle pitches are very beautiful indeed. Well worth repeating
Ligne Blanche
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Empire State Building
Empire State Building - Clocher du Tacul
ED+, 7c max
An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Swiss Route
Swiss Route - Grand Capucin
ED-, 7b max.
The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...
Diretta Grande Muro
Diretta Grande Muro - Heiligkreuzkofel
VII
A nice route up good quality rock, more sustained and with less in-situ gear than nearby Grande Muro.
Mittelpfeiler
Mittelpfeiler - Heiligkreuzkofel
8 (7 Mariacher variation)
Mittelpfeiler is a pleasant outing up solid rock, especially in the upper section. With in-situ gear throughout the entire route, the Messner was long considered one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites. Heinz Mariacher repeated the route adding an...
Diedro Mayerl
Diedro Mayerl - Heiligkreuzkofel
-7
Logical and extremely exposed line up the obvious corner to the left of the ”Grande Muro”. On the whole the route climbs up fairly solid rock, but in parts though this may be a bit friable.
Grande Muro
Grande Muro - Heiligkreuzkofel
7-
Great route up solid rock, especially in the upper section. In-situ gear can be found throughout the entire route.
La Grande Onda - Big Wave
La Grande Onda - Big Wave - Torre Sprit
8a
In mid-September the Italian Rolando Larcher 2002 made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave". Located deep in the Dolomites on the Torre Sprit, this 500m route clocks in at 8a. According to Larcher this...
Tempi modernissimi
Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce - Marmolada d'Ombretta
7+, A2 (7b+)
A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme, and even if the original protection has been modified, it nevertheless remains a route not to be underestimated.
Schwalbenschwanz
Schwalbenschwanz - Marmolada d'Ombretta
6
The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least...


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