Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
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Planetmountain
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces.
First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane at the end of the eighties, it is still considered one of the earliest extreme alpine routes. Opened from the ground-up using bolts, the route follows a line of smooth pocketed slabs and bulges, similar to those on the South Face, with difficulties up to 7c+.
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia.
AccessSasso delle Undici is clearly visible from Passo Fedaia on the North Face of the Marmolada. Leave the car at the pass and walk up the piste, and leave this at the height of the Sasso, following scree and limestone slabs right to the base of the enormous pillar. Climb up the short pedestal from the left over a series of small scree-filled ledges. The start of the route is the obvious open V, with two small caves on either side. Take care: the route described here heads off vertically using the old Cassin bolts. Do not get confused by other nearby lines.
DescentAbseil down the route. All belays in-situ.
Gear12 quickdraws, a set of friends and tricams, skyhook and two 60 m ropes.
NotesThe grades indicated on the topo are in line with those already published in the Marmolada guidebooks by Maurizio Giordani and Heinz Mariacher.
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