Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of 'Lumina' on Wildgall

The first attempt on April 10th ended early: after about 50 meters, strong winds forced me to retreat. But the project haunted me. Two days later, on April 12th, I reached the parking lot again at 4:30 a.m. - this time in calm, slightly cloudy weather. Thanks to the gear stash at the base of the wall, my pack was light, and I made good progress.

The line I’d chosen seemed almost too logical: a steep, striking couloir cut through the northeast pillar — exactly my style. The mixed climbing was demanding but could be protected well with good cam placements. Still, loose flakes demanded full attention. In the central section of the wall, rocks repeatedly crashed onto the face from above — a stark reminder of why this route should only be climbed in cold conditions.

Despite full concentration and the tension, I felt like I was in the flow. I left a few pegs and a pecker in-situ, but the line takes plenty of small cams. When I reached the summit just after noon, I was elated — alone, surrounded by silence and sunshine. I allowed myself a short break, let my gaze wander, and soaked in the moment.

The descent via the south face went smoothly: two 30-meter abseils, then abseils down the route Seltene Erden. A phenomenal day — with a line that just felt right. Lumina was created.

A huge thank you to Andreas Messner, Konrad Renzler, and Rudolf Leitgeb for their invaluable beta!

Simon Gietl, Luttach, 18/04/2025