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Swiss Route - Grand Capucin

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Roberto Rossi

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Swiss Route: Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, Marco Gnaccarini - Ivan Maghella 07/2020

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

C. Asper, M. Bron, M. Grossi, M. Morel 1956

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

Length

300m

Difficulty

ED-, 7b max.

Obligatory difficulty

Route

The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ pegs along the route and belays... consequently it's hard to get lost!

Access

From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. The route starts to the left, about half-way up the snow gully that separates Grand Capucin from Trident du Tacul, at the base of the obvious large corner and terrace.

Descent

Abseil down the route. Check the state of the belays, especially at the start of the season!

Gear

A set of nuts and friends up to #3.

Filip Babicz, Grand Capucin - Grand Capucin and the line of the Swiss Route with O Sole Mio exit, climbed by Filip Babicz in 49 minutes on 23/09/2022

Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc - Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc

Filip Babicz, Grand Capucin, Monte Bianco, Via degli Svizzeri, O Sole Mio - Filip Babicz climbing Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc massif in just 49 minutes on 23/09/2022

Alexander Huber - Alexander Huber in summer 2008 soloing the Swiss Route on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc.

Solenne Piret Grand Capucin Mont Blanc - Solenne Piret climbing Grand Capucin via the Swiss route + O Sole Mio exit, July 2024

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29/07/2010 rf

Bella via che alterna tratti un po' dubbi a tratti bellissimi, ambiente "de paura", di una bellezza rara. Una nota... la relazione qui riportata non riesco a riconoscerla neanche dopo aver fatto la via! Se non siete pratici del Capucin, cercate altre relazioni!

21/02/2009 Tommaso Lamatia

Fantastica via da non sottovalutare. una delle migliori salite fin ora, anche con un bel volo sulle fessure parallele prima del tetto verso la fine della via.

29/09/2003 alex ostorero

Granito rosso fuoco ,via logica e abbastanza continua,da consigliare l'uscita per O sole mio

28/07/2003 Paolo Mainotti

Bella via in un magnifico ambiente.Rimane pero' il "premio di consolazione" del Gran Cap (per chi va su queste difficolta' il Monte Bianco offre di meglio...)

Beauty

First ascent

C. Asper, M. Bron, M. Grossi, M. Morel 1956

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

Length

300m

Difficulty

ED-, 7b max.

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Routes in the same mountain group

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