The routes

A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding....

The Schubert is a classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted...

Beautiful combination that starts up the first half of Roberta 89 to then continue along Via Buhl. The route follows a logical line up featured slab to a large corner located in the middle of the Piz Ciavazes face. All...

Capu Aliri is a granite dome whose south face rounds off into a series of smooth slabs. The mountain is isolated, located high above the Tavignano valley, and due to its distance from Corte it is best reached from the...

On the whole the climbing is less beautiful than that on Ombre e Lumiere, but some pitches are nevertheless interesting and worth doing. The route climbs the right-hand side of the tower, following a series of enormous steps up good...

Splendid granite climbing up incredibly weathered rock. The route climbs the left-hand side of the Rossolino pillar wedged in the narrow Tavignano valley and follows a series of fantastic corners and vertical walls with rounded holds. The route is equipped...

Symponie d’automne offers superb slab climbing above a deep blue lake. The first pitch is original: a traverse on a metal cable just above the water mark! The route then ascends easy angled slabs and the climb is never excessively...

Significantly harder than  Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master...

Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.

This isn't the easiest route up the wall but definitely the most classic, tamed by the bolts placed by the first ascentionist – at times the gear is somewhat irrational. The climbing is varied up perfect rock. The original grades...

Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The...

Classic route, one of the most popular in the Dolomites. It follows a line of thin cracks up the west face of the third Torre del Sella. The crux leads to a roof above the large ledge at half-height and...

One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto...

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...

A true journey that winds its way up a sea of granite. Without a doubt the most popular and sought-after modern route on the Grand Capucin. The climbing is technical and athletic. Being good at placing natural pro is a...