The routes

Climbing routes

647
Routes in archive
Via dei Larici
Via dei Larici - Lagazuoi nord
7a+
A modern route to the left of Via del Drago. It is protected with 10 mm bolts and on the whole the rock quality is good, apart from some friable sections on the first pitches. Either abseil back down the...
Via Consiglio
Via Consiglio - Lagazuoi nord
IV+
An interesting and relatively unknown route on the right-hand side of the Lagazuoi’s North Face. The rock quality is fairly good, but a bit loose in the upper section.
Fachiri
Fachiri - Cima Scotoni
6
First ascended in winter 1972 with few pegs and no aid, this route represented a milestone in mountaineering both for its grade and style of ascent. Nowadays it is an interesting route, perhaps slightly discontinuous, but worth repeating, if only...
Hyperscotoni
Hyperscotoni - Cima Scotoni
6c
Hyperscotoni takes an interesting and difficult line up the center of the immense Cima Scotoni, joining via Lacedelli at the first ledge and sharing two of its pitches before continuing on up direct. The rock quality is good, and...
Tridentina
Tridentina - Mur de Pisciadù
7a/b 2 sections A0
An interesting, short and demanding route up the center of the wall. Bolted on lead, it offers 6b/c climbing with a final 7b crux pitch, which can be aided (two moves, A0). On the whole the rock quality is good,...
Triplano
Triplano - Sass de la Luesa
7b 2 sections A0
An interesting, short and demanding route up the center of the wall. Bolted on lead, it offers 6b/c climbing with a final 7b crux pitch, which can be aided (two moves, A0). On the whole the rock quality is good,...
La Grande Guerra
La Grande Guerra - Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes
7a
Great modern alpine sports climb on Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes first ascended from the ground up. It is completely equipped with 10 mm bolts.
Pacchia
Pacchia - Castelletto della Tofana di Rozes
6c+
Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.
4 giorni una estate
4 giorni una estate - Sass Pordoi
7a
A great route that climbs up the imposing West Face of the Sass Pordoi, to the left of Abram. The route takes a direct and extremely exposed line up excellent rock.The route was climbed from the ground up over an...
Regenbogen
Regenbogen - Torre delle Mesules Est
7
The route climbs up the left-hand side of the rock face and reaches the top of an obvious detached tower before continuing up a nice vertical face. Regenbogen has one section which is more demanding than nearby  - and more...
Non ci resta che piangere
Non ci resta che piangere - Piz Ciavazes
7a/A2
The route climbs between the obvious corner taken by Via Zeni and the arete of Via Italia 61, up a series of slabs and two alrge overhangs. The climbing is technical on yellow and grey limestone which is almost...
Malsiner Moroder
Malsiner Moroder - Fourth Sella Tower
V/VI
This classic route is not particularly popular, but unjustifiably so. It takes a central line up the solid yellow grey slabs and the middle pitches are very beautiful indeed. Well worth repeating
Ligne Blanche
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Empire State Building
Empire State Building - Clocher du Tacul
ED+, 7c max
An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Swiss Route
Swiss Route - Grand Capucin
ED-, 7b max.
The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...


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