The routes

With the major Valley spires climbed, the pioneers of the 30's turned to the unclimbed faces. Climbing Half Dome and El Capitan was unthinkable. The 1400-foot Royal Arches, however, was covered with just enough features and ledges to forge a...

An excellent, clean, widening crack up a steep wall, Sacherer Cracker is a beautiful climb. Bomber protection for the crux and the first 100 feet of climbing leads to a 10-foot widening offwidth, which is the actual crux for many....

This is often called "The best 5.8 hand crack in Yosemite Valley." The climbing consists of glorious hand jams, a brief wide section and double cracks. For some, Bishop's Terrace will be a crowning climb of their Yosemite trip while...

Fantastic route first ascended by Massimo Da Pozzo and Danilo Serafini in September 2003. Magnificent climbing on splendid featured limestone with plenty of small pockets and small crimps, very similar to the nearby South Face of the Marmolada. The route...

New route on the Lastoni di Formin (Dolomites) at the hands of Mario Dibona and Gretchen Alexander. The duo created a new bolt 300m route up the center of Spiz de Mondeval, calling it "Love my dogs" and grading it...

Elegant classic route which climbs the arête that divides the west face from the south. This is a pleasant and exposed route up good quality rock, at times excellent, which first climbs the large face, then the obvious beautiful featured...

The route climbs the center of the wall through the imposing overhangs. Aid was used on the first ascent, but nowadays it goes free at 7b. Either follow the original line in the upper section or, recommended, climb up the...

An aesthetic and exposed line up the imposing NW arête which goes free at 7a. The rock is fairly solid, except for on the first pitches it shares with Via Cassin.

The Cassin up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo is a beautiful route, one of the classics in the Dolomites. Exposed and sustained climbing up to 7a, on fairly solid rock.

Modern bolt and peg route to the left of Via Comici. The upper section is loose and less protected, most climbers therefore descend at half-height.

Beautiful slab climbing up compact, weathered rock. The route starts to the right of Gimmi and avoids the top roofs by traversing left above them.

This route takes a direct line on the left-hand side of Taé, up a series of compact slabs, crossing Via G. Milan towards the finish.

A “classic” addition that climbs the arête to the left of Diedro Dallago, up good quality rock. 18 pegs were placed on the first ascent, and the difficulties, apart from the third crux pitch, are in the region of UIAA...

A modern route to the right of Via degli Scoiattoli, slightly easier than nearby Via Falcone e Borsellino. Bolted on lead, it is well worth repeating thanks to its excellent quality rock and climbing.

Fantastic, demanding climbing up excellent quality rock to the left of Via degli Scoiattoli. The in-situ gear, a mixture of bolts and pegs, is fairly run-out at times.

A classic route through the center of the Tofana di Mezzo’s beautiful East Face. First ascended with the help of aid, it now goes free at 7a. Excellent quality rock, except for a few rare exceptions, and plenty of in-situ...