The routes

Climbing routes

630
Routes in archive
Mittelpfeiler
Mittelpfeiler - Heiligkreuzkofel
8 (7 Mariacher variation)
Mittelpfeiler is a pleasant outing up solid rock, especially in the upper section. With in-situ gear throughout the entire route, the Messner was long considered one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites. Heinz Mariacher repeated the route adding an...
Diedro Mayerl
Diedro Mayerl - Heiligkreuzkofel
-7
Logical and extremely exposed line up the obvious corner to the left of the ”Grande Muro”. On the whole the route climbs up fairly solid rock, but in parts though this may be a bit friable.
Grande Muro
Grande Muro - Heiligkreuzkofel
7-
Great route up solid rock, especially in the upper section. In-situ gear can be found throughout the entire route.
La Grande Onda - Big Wave
La Grande Onda - Big Wave - Torre Sprit
8a
In mid-September the Italian Rolando Larcher 2002 made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave". Located deep in the Dolomites on the Torre Sprit, this 500m route clocks in at 8a. According to Larcher this...
Tempi modernissimi
Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce
The Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce - Marmolada d'Ombretta
7+, A2 (7b+)
A legendary route, and quite rightly so; a true masterpiece of Dolomite climbing. Nowadays the “Pesce” has become a classic extreme, and even if the original protection has been modified, it nevertheless remains a route not to be underestimated.
Schwalbenschwanz
Schwalbenschwanz - Marmolada d'Ombretta
6
The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least...
Don Quixote
Don Quixote - Marmolada d'Ombretta
VI
Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts...
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct
Vinatzer + exit Messner direct - Marmolada Punta Rocca
VI+
This masterpiece, first climbed by Vinatzer in 1936, is one of the most classic and popular outings on the wall, and nowadays the link up with the Direct Messner route in the upper section is definitely recommended. The first part...
Tempi moderni
Tempi moderni - Punta Rocca
7+
Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers...
Via del cinquantenario F.I.S.I. (Gogna)
Via del cinquantenario F.I.S.I. (Gogna) - Marmolada Punta Rocca
7
This route climbs a long series of slabs, corners, chimneys and cracks up the left-hand arête of Punta Rocca, the second highest peak on the Queen of the Dolomites. It is an excellent, beautiful and varied route that highlights the...
Soldà - Conforto
Soldà - Conforto - Marmolada Punta Penia
7-
This classic route is one of the most repeated on the Marmolada. It follows a line up the South Pillar of Punta Penia, overlooking the Passo Ombretta, to the southwest of Marmolada’s immense south face. The Pillar is divided into...
Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale - Campanile di Val Montanaia
V-
Campanile di Val Montanaia is the most popular peaks in the Monfalconi group of the Friuli Dolomites, offering spectacular views of rare beauty. This historic ascent, carried out in 1902 by V.W. von Glanvell and K.G. von Saar, was achieved...
Nikibi
Nikibi - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
6b+
A modern bolt route first ascended from the ground which climbs the smooth slabs of the tower. The route ascends a compact vertical rock face and offers great mid-grade climbing. Given the route's difficulty, the bolts and beauty, Nikibi is...
Paolo Amedeo
Paolo Amedeo - Lastoni di Formin, Torrione Marcella
5
A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection...
Excusez moi...
Excusez moi... - Lastoni di Formin
max 7b
A modern route through the center of the face, up grey rock to the right of Spigolo Priolo. Easier and less sustained than nearby Spiderman, the climbing is demanding with a 7b crux and obligatory 7a.


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