The routes

Climbing routes

653
Routes in archive
British Way
British Way - Bruncu Nieddu
7a+, E5 6a
First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia on Punta Cusidore, the west face of Bruncu Nieddu, just a few meters away from the historic "Spalle al Muro" (Bernardi Demichela, 1981), one of the legendary routes of the 1980's. British Way...
Silbergeier
Silbergeier - IV Kirchlispitze
8b/8b+
Silbergeier is a fantastic route in a marvellous position. The route is perfectly vertical and offers super technical face climbing on small edges and microscopic footholds. The moves are hard to decipher, especially the first time on the route which...
Italia '61
Italia '61 - Piz Ciavazes
8a
In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...
Le Droit Chemin
Le Droit Chemin - Presles
TD+, 7b max
Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...
Canada Dry
Canada Dry - Presles
ED, 7a+
A sustained, strenuous 12 pitch outing up magnificent rock!
Vue de L’exterieur
Vue de L’exterieur - Presles
ED-, 7a
An excellent, sustained masterpiece, considered to be one of the best at Presles. Located in the Sector Chrysanthemes, the first half of this six pitch route is technical and fingery, while the second airy and pumpy. Not to be missed.
Avec vue sur la mer
Avec vue sur la mer - Presles
6a/A0
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
Bim bam boum
Bim bam boum - Presles
D, 5c
One of easiest routes on this wall (similar in grade to Voie d'Eliane) in the Sector les Buis. Excellent grey limestone, extremely well protected, at times vegetated.
Mister Magoo
Mister Magoo - Piccolo Dain
7c/S2/II
First ascended from the ground-up with bolts, the route is dedicated to their teacher Franco Cavallaro who, together with Giuanguido Dalfovo, carried out the first repeat and redpoint on 17 November 2008. These commented: "The route climbed by strong Canale...
Mai molar
Mai molar - Tofana di Rozes
7a+
Route first ascended from the ground up using 10mm stainless steel bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend, as well as long quickdraws...
Quel calcare nell anima
Quel calcare nell anima - Tofana di Rozes
6c
Route first ascended from the ground up using stainless steel 10mm bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend.
Il lato oscuro
Il lato oscuro - Sergent
II/S2+/6c max
Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.
Jedi Master
Jedi Master - Sergent
I/S2/6c+ max
Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.
Eterni Peter Pan
Eterni Peter Pan - Rocca La Meya
TD 6a+
First ascended by Ezio Marlier and Elisabetta Caserini, this route takes a line close to those climbed by Cesare Ravaschietto and Fabio Vivalda on what is often described as being one of the most beautiful rock faces in Piemonte, both...
Frisch - Corradini
Frisch - Corradini - Pala del Rifugio
V+ (TD)
The Frisch - Corradini was the reference route in Val Canali for many years and it is one of thre great Dolomite classics of its grade. It climbs up excellent rock the NW Face of Pala and share the final...
Scalet - Bettega
Scalet - Bettega - Sass d'Ortiga
V+ (TD)
Elegant line that, with impeccable style, breaches the towering SW Face of Sass d'Ortiga. The route follows a direct line up the beautiful corner the cuts down the central and upper section of the face. Magnificent climbing leads right into...


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