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Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi

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Roberto Rossi

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Le Fou de l’Aiguille

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

G. Long, R.V ogler, 1986

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

Length

200m

Difficulty

ABO-, 7b max

Obligatory difficulty

Route

A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final pitch climbs a delicate crimpy vertical wall up close to an incredible arête. Definitely one of the best routes on Mont Blanc.

Access
Take the Aiguille du Midi cable car, then descend briefly on foot (or abseil if the weather is stable and you're sure you'll finish the route). Alternatively, if coming from Punta Helbronner, cross the Vallée Blanche. Descent
Abseil more or less down the line of ascent; there are many abseil stations, make sure to chose the best carefully! Gear
Small nuts and two sets of small friends & TCUs.