The routesClimbing routes
Fessura di Gianfri - Nid Des Hirondelles - Valgrisenche
5.13 – 8a
Located at Nid Des Hirondelles, the first crag to be bolted in Valgrisenche, Fessura di Gianfri climbs the obvious diagonal crack that splits the huge overhang.
Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul
ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux
7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
L'or du temps - Grand Capucin
7c+
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque
7a+
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul
ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
Les Pèlerins et la Dame - Aiguille de l'Eveque
6c/A0
Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Ligne Blanche - Chandelle du Tacul
ED, 7a+ max
A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.
Mares - Aiguille de la Brenva
ABO, 7c+ max, expo
Technically difficult and psychologically demanding route up excellent rock on a face which is relatively easy to reach but far removed from the more popular climbing destinations.
Rébuffat - Eperon des Cosmiques
D+, 6a max
A short but beautiful route, with a single 6a crux. Ideal for those new to climbing on the Mont Blanc.
Rébuffat - Aiguille du Midi
TD+, 6A max.
A historic route, probably the most popular on the entire face, which has by now become a crag above 3500m. The fourth pitch is fantastic, and the upper section offers numerous escape routes.
Salluard - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD-, 5+ max
Highly satisfying climbing that follows a logical line close to the arête.
Spettacolare - Roi de Siam Petit Capucin
7c+
Difficult multi-pitch climb up the Roi de Siam granite tower, located directly in front of the Petit Capucin. Established ground-up, the climb takes a line in the center of the face, between the 1989 Petit Capoussin climb and the classic Boccalatte...
Swiss Route - Grand Capucin
ED-, 7b max.
The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ...
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