Fessura di Gianfri - Nid Des Hirondelles - Valgrisenche
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Fessura di Gianfri: Nid Des Hirondelles, Valgrisenche, Marco Sappa, Mattia Sappa. Photo Evi Garbolino
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Marco Sappa, Mattia Sappa on 7,8,9 May 2020. Freed by Marco Sappa on 9 May 2020
By
Marco Sappa, Mountain Guide
Orientation
SE
Length
50m
Difficulty
5.13 – 8a
Located at Nid Des Hirondelles, the first crag to be bolted in Valgrisenche, Fessura di Gianfri climbs the obvious diagonal crack that splits the huge overhang.
Getting there
Take the A5 motorway and exit at Aosta Ovest. After 900 meters reach a roundabout, take the second exit (SS26) and continue towards Courmayeur. After about 8 km drive through Arvier, then turn left towards Valgrisenche (SR25) before the tunnel. After about 15 km reach Vagrisenche; drive through it towards 'Bonne' to reach 2 hairpin bends. Park in the obvious layby at the second bend. Access
From the car park follow the trail through the forest to reach the base of the crag in just a few minutes. Itinerary
After the first 6b pitch, the climb follows the overhanging 7a+ protected by bolts. Halfway up this break off left into the overhang. The first moves follow powerful underclings and lead to a good jam. Continue to the thin crack that leads steeply past some finger jams to the top of the fin.
50 meters (P1 25m - P2 25m) Descent
One 40m abseil from belay #2 to the ground Gear
7 quickdraws, cams from 0.2 tp 0.75 BD, possibly double 0.2/0.3/0.4. 80m rope Notes
First ascended by Marco and Mattia Sappa, the climb is dedicated to their father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.
Take the A5 motorway and exit at Aosta Ovest. After 900 meters reach a roundabout, take the second exit (SS26) and continue towards Courmayeur. After about 8 km drive through Arvier, then turn left towards Valgrisenche (SR25) before the tunnel. After about 15 km reach Vagrisenche; drive through it towards 'Bonne' to reach 2 hairpin bends. Park in the obvious layby at the second bend. Access
From the car park follow the trail through the forest to reach the base of the crag in just a few minutes. Itinerary
After the first 6b pitch, the climb follows the overhanging 7a+ protected by bolts. Halfway up this break off left into the overhang. The first moves follow powerful underclings and lead to a good jam. Continue to the thin crack that leads steeply past some finger jams to the top of the fin.
50 meters (P1 25m - P2 25m) Descent
One 40m abseil from belay #2 to the ground Gear
7 quickdraws, cams from 0.2 tp 0.75 BD, possibly double 0.2/0.3/0.4. 80m rope Notes
First ascended by Marco and Mattia Sappa, the climb is dedicated to their father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.
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Beauty
First ascent
Marco Sappa, Mattia Sappa on 7,8,9 May 2020. Freed by Marco Sappa on 9 May 2020
By
Marco Sappa, Mountain Guide
Orientation
SE
Length
50m
Difficulty
5.13 – 8a
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