Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque
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Elio Bonfanti
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Le manteau de l'Eveque: Le manteau de l'Eveque (arch. R. Roetti)
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 18/07/2011
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
Southwest
Length
240m
Height
3716m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Period
Summer
Route
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Getting there
From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier.
Access
Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face (1:40 hours). Itinerary
P1: 6a
P2: 5a
P3: 6c / 7a A0
P4: 6a+
P5: 6b
P6: 4b Descent
Abseil down the route. 50m ropes. Gear
10 mm bolts. Take a set of camming devices up to Camalot #3 for additional pro.
From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier.
Access
Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face (1:40 hours). Itinerary
P1: 6a
P2: 5a
P3: 6c / 7a A0
P4: 6a+
P5: 6b
P6: 4b Descent
Abseil down the route. 50m ropes. Gear
10 mm bolts. Take a set of camming devices up to Camalot #3 for additional pro.
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Beauty
First ascent
Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 18/07/2011
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
Southwest
Length
240m
Height
3716m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Period
Summer
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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24/08/2010 - Alpinism
New rock climbs on Aiguille de l'Eveque, Mont Blanc Two new routes on SSW shoulder of Aiguille de l'Eveque, Le manteau de l'Eveque (240m, 7a max, 6b+ oblig) and Les Pèlerins et la Dame (200m, 6c/A0, 6a+ oblig) first...