L'or du temps - Grand Capucin
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L'or du temps: Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc (Nina Caprez, Arnaud Petit summer 2017)
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Nina Caprez, Arnaud Petit 5,13-15/08/2017. First free ascent: Pavel Kratochvíl, Róbert Luby and Martin Krasňanský 27/08/2017
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
East
Length
470 m
Height
3838 m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez.
The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly overhanging climbing to practically right below the summit, where it joins what is believed to be the Ragni di Lecco route.
L'or du temps and is protected with trad gear wherever possibile along the cracks and corners. Nevertheless a total 27 bolts were placed along the pitches, and all belays are bolted. Some of these bolts were added after the first ascent in order to make the climbing less dangerous.
Once the rock is cleaned Petit believes the route may become a classic.
The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly overhanging climbing to practically right below the summit, where it joins what is believed to be the Ragni di Lecco route.
L'or du temps and is protected with trad gear wherever possibile along the cracks and corners. Nevertheless a total 27 bolts were placed along the pitches, and all belays are bolted. Some of these bolts were added after the first ascent in order to make the climbing less dangerous.
Once the rock is cleaned Petit believes the route may become a classic.
Getting there
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. Start directly beneath the enormous grey corner, capped by a large roof. Itinerary
6a, 6a, 7a, 6c, 7c+, 7b, 6b+, 7c, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6a+ Gear
Cams: x 2 up to C2, 1 x C3
From Italy: reach Courmayeur via the motorway A5 Torino-Aosta-Morgex. From Morgex continue along the SS26 to Courmayeur and then on to La Palud. Take the cable car from here to the Colle del Gigante and Rifugio Torino 3375m, an ideal base for all routes described in this article.
From France: reach Chamonix and take the Aiguile du Midi cable car to reach the Cormiques refuge. The walk-in from here takes about 1 hour more than from Rifugio Torino
AccessFrom Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. Start directly beneath the enormous grey corner, capped by a large roof. Itinerary
6a, 6a, 7a, 6c, 7c+, 7b, 6b+, 7c, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6a+ Gear
Cams: x 2 up to C2, 1 x C3
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Beauty
First ascent
Nina Caprez, Arnaud Petit 5,13-15/08/2017. First free ascent: Pavel Kratochvíl, Róbert Luby and Martin Krasňanský 27/08/2017
By
Planetmountain.com
Orientation
East
Length
470 m
Height
3838 m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin,...