Les Pèlerins et la Dame - Aiguille de l'Eveque
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Elio Bonfanti
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Les Pèlerins et la Dame: The Jorasses cockerel (arch. E. Bonfanti)
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 01-07/08/2010
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
Southwest
Length
200m
Height
3716m
Difficulty
6c/A0
Obligatory difficulty
6a+
Period
Summer
Route
Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
Getting there
From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier. Access
Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face, at circa 2650m. (1.40 hours). Itinerary
P1: 6a
P2: 6b
P3: 6a
P4: 6a+
P5: 6c/A0 Descent
Abseil down the route. 50m ropes. Gear
10 mm bolts. Although not indispensable, a set of camming devices up to Camalot #2 may be found useful.
From Courmayeur drive into Val Ferret and park the car after the houses at Tronchey, directly beneath the Pra Sec glacier. Access
Walk up the detritus gully to the first rocks on the right, towards the Jacchia bivouac, then follow a vague track and some yellow markers to reach a short in-situ rope. Ascend this to reach the wide cleft at the base of the obvious rock face, at circa 2650m. (1.40 hours). Itinerary
P1: 6a
P2: 6b
P3: 6a
P4: 6a+
P5: 6c/A0 Descent
Abseil down the route. 50m ropes. Gear
10 mm bolts. Although not indispensable, a set of camming devices up to Camalot #2 may be found useful.
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Beauty
First ascent
Elio Bonfanti, Rinaldo Roetti 01-07/08/2010
By
Elio Bonfanti
Orientation
Southwest
Length
200m
Height
3716m
Difficulty
6c/A0
Obligatory difficulty
6a+
Period
Summer
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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24/08/2010 - Alpinism
New rock climbs on Aiguille de l'Eveque, Mont Blanc Two new routes on SSW shoulder of Aiguille de l'Eveque, Le manteau de l'Eveque (240m, 7a max, 6b+ oblig) and Les Pèlerins et la Dame (200m, 6c/A0, 6a+ oblig) first...