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Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul

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Roberto Rossi

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Les Intouchables

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Beauty

First ascent

M. Piola & H. Bouvard

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

Length

250m

Difficulty

ABO-, 7c+ max

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent.
The "truly strong" can climb the seventh pitch 8a variation, just to the left of the original route (thin crack, bring plenty of small friends, Bassanini variation, 8a 1993)

Access
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car, descend left beneath the north face of Tour Ronde, to then continue at altitude towards Grand Capucin. At the end turn off left, climb up the glacier to a small terrace. A bolt beneath the overhanging crack marks the start of the route (another bolt can be made out roughly halfway up the crack). Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
A full rack of nuts and twin set of friends up to # 3.