The crags

One of Sardinia's best, this impressive and atmospheric cliff commands respect. The routes are sharp, technical and sustained, either vertical or slightly overhanging, and very exposed. They are reached via abseil and start way above the ledge at half-height. An...

The massive free-standing Aguglia di Goloritzé towers high above Cala Goloritzé, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - an absolute must!The iconic needle was first climbed on an...

This sea cliff is characterised by sharp, reddish limestone, fragile in places. Routes are well-bolted, the climbing technical and, since they are abseiled into, the only way is up…

Castello di Jerzu is great crag in SE Sardinia discovered by myself in in Janaury 1989. The first route to be bolted here was "Sogno a colori" and during the first three years 60 routes were established to ensure a...

Without a doubt one of the most famous crags in Italy and beyond, Massone offers something for everyone. It hosts over 150 routes of all difficulties and angles, from easy slabs to extreme overhangs. The routes climb compact limestone, up...

If the mountaineering trilogy is composed of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn, the climbing equivalent is the Verdon, Ceuse and Buoux. In certain respects these “mythical three” were the birthplace of sports climbing during the 1980's and...

The recently discovered “Parco dei Sassi” is located above Lake Orta and Lake Maggiore, directly in front of Monte Rosa. Reddish/grey granite boulders up to 5m high, large grained and rounded, result in slopy moves above grass or sand...

Located at the foot of Lecco's Grigna, the Nibbio tower holds an important place in Italian mountaineering history, with the likes of Cassin, Bonatti, Messner and Comici all passing this way. The climbing varies considerably from thin cracks to overhanging slabs....

Madonna della Rota is a splendid little crag well worth a visit located high above Lago d'Iseo in northern Italy. The main sector is just off vertical and presents technical stamina climbing, while further to the right the angle eases...

"Cornalba is perhaps not as popular as it once used to be because the climbing style is no longer in vogue: slightly overhanging face climbing, with routes that are technical and complicated. The few repeats are testament to this change...

Ceredo is without doubt one of the most interesting and beautiful crags in the North of Italy. It lies just a few kilometers north of Verona and hosts more than 180 routes of all grades. The limestone is excellent and...