Biddiriscottai
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Nicholas Hobley climbing Oceano Mare
Marco Moretti
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b - 6c+
Height
150/200 metri
Link
Routes number
3
Rock type
Sharp, reddish limestone,
Orientation
East
Rope
Two 60m ropes. The cliff is approx. 200m high.
This sea cliff is characterised by sharp, reddish limestone, fragile in places. Routes are well-bolted, the climbing technical and, since they are abseiled into, the only way is up…
Access
From Cala Gonone follow the sign "Cartoe/Osalla". At the first hairpin bend continue straight up the cement road which soon levels out and turns into a dirt track. Follow this for over 2km to the first cairn which marks the start of Oceano Mare. Apriti Cielo is marked over 1.5km further on, as is L'Alchemista. The abseils are marked with a spot of black paint. Logistics
Wild camping is strictly prohibited in the National Park, but the municipal campsite in Cala Gonone is prohibitively expensive! Rooms or apartments can easily be found by asking around - expect to pay between 15-20 euro/head.There are small supermarkets in Cala Gonone and Baunei, while to the north of Olbia there is an enormous out-of-town shopping mall. Period
Autumn or spring. September is particularly good since the sea is beautifully warm and the island relatively free of tourists. Summer is unbearably hot and winter can often be too cold and windy. Climb
Technical vertical face climbing up sharp, reddish limestone. Notes
Getting to Sardinia
By plane: fly to Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero and then hire a car.
By car: take one of the numerous ferries from Genova, Livorno, Rome or Naples to Olbia. From Olbia take the highways SS125 and SS131 southwards towards Nuoro. Exit before Nuoro following signs to Dorgali. Shortly after this town a signposted road leads left through a tunnel down to Cala Gonone (approx. 100km, 1.5 hrs).
Baunei is reached via the winding SS125 from Dorgagli in about an hour (50km).
For ferry information visit either www.mobylines.it or www.corsicaferries.com
Bibliography
Pietra Di Luna - a guide to sport climbing in Sardinia - Crags by Maurizio Oviglia (Fabula 2011)
From Cala Gonone follow the sign "Cartoe/Osalla". At the first hairpin bend continue straight up the cement road which soon levels out and turns into a dirt track. Follow this for over 2km to the first cairn which marks the start of Oceano Mare. Apriti Cielo is marked over 1.5km further on, as is L'Alchemista. The abseils are marked with a spot of black paint. Logistics
Wild camping is strictly prohibited in the National Park, but the municipal campsite in Cala Gonone is prohibitively expensive! Rooms or apartments can easily be found by asking around - expect to pay between 15-20 euro/head.There are small supermarkets in Cala Gonone and Baunei, while to the north of Olbia there is an enormous out-of-town shopping mall. Period
Autumn or spring. September is particularly good since the sea is beautifully warm and the island relatively free of tourists. Summer is unbearably hot and winter can often be too cold and windy. Climb
Technical vertical face climbing up sharp, reddish limestone. Notes
Getting to Sardinia
By plane: fly to Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero and then hire a car.
By car: take one of the numerous ferries from Genova, Livorno, Rome or Naples to Olbia. From Olbia take the highways SS125 and SS131 southwards towards Nuoro. Exit before Nuoro following signs to Dorgali. Shortly after this town a signposted road leads left through a tunnel down to Cala Gonone (approx. 100km, 1.5 hrs).
Baunei is reached via the winding SS125 from Dorgagli in about an hour (50km).
For ferry information visit either www.mobylines.it or www.corsicaferries.com
News Sardinia | |
www.sardiniaclimb.com |
Pietra Di Luna - a guide to sport climbing in Sardinia - Crags by Maurizio Oviglia (Fabula 2011)
Sectors
Biddiriscottai
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Oceano mare | 6b+, 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6b | ||
2 | Apriti Cielo | 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6b, 6c | ||
3 | L'alchemista | 6b+, 6c+, 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a, 6b |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6b - 6c+
Height
150/200 metri
Link
Routes number
3
Rock type
Sharp, reddish limestone,
Orientation
East
Rope
Two 60m ropes. The cliff is approx. 200m high.
Crags in the same region
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