The crags

In the mid-eighties, the strongest in the world agreed at least on one thing: Buoux was the best crag in the universe. They travelled from every corner to the south of France in search of the impossible - and Buoux's...

The steeply overhanging Erto has long been known as one of the hardest crags in Italy, hitting the limelight a few years ago with Luca Zardini’s first ascent of "The big Mother" (8c+). Thankfully most routes are somewhat easier...

Dvigrad castle, constructed in the 11th century close to a slender, south-facing limestone outcrop, was abandoned in the 17th century due to a pest outbreak. Nowadays only the ruins remain of one of Istria's most famous hallmarks, but it still...

From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the...

Punta Giradili, described by many as one of Sardinia's finest sea cliffs, is breathtaking. It offers fantastic climbing and stunning views onto the Mediterranean sea over 400m below.

One of Sardinia's best, this impressive and atmospheric cliff commands respect. The routes are sharp, technical and sustained, either vertical or slightly overhanging, and very exposed. They are reached via abseil and start way above the ledge at half-height. An...

The massive free-standing Aguglia di Goloritzé towers high above Cala Goloritzé, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - an absolute must!The iconic needle was first climbed on an...

This sea cliff is characterised by sharp, reddish limestone, fragile in places. Routes are well-bolted, the climbing technical and, since they are abseiled into, the only way is up…

Castello di Jerzu is great crag in SE Sardinia discovered by myself in in Janaury 1989. The first route to be bolted here was "Sogno a colori" and during the first three years 60 routes were established to ensure a...

Without a doubt one of the most famous crags in Italy and beyond, Massone offers something for everyone. It hosts over 150 routes of all difficulties and angles, from easy slabs to extreme overhangs. The routes climb compact limestone, up...

If the mountaineering trilogy is composed of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn, the climbing equivalent is the Verdon, Ceuse and Buoux. In certain respects these “mythical three” were the birthplace of sports climbing during the 1980's and...