Nicola Noè, Beppe Dallona
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The beautiful crag Cornalba in Val Serina close to Bergamo, Italy
Nicholas Hobley
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8c+
Height
200m
Rock type
Excellent slightly overhanging limestone.
Orientation
S, E
Rope
70m


"Cornalba is perhaps not as popular as it once used to be because the climbing style is no longer in vogue: slightly overhanging face climbing, with routes that are technical and complicated. The few repeats are testament to this change in style, and nowadays those who climb hard and compete mostly train on overhangs. Nevertheless Cornalba has an incredible potential, especially in its central section, but one really has to work at it." These the words of Beppe Dallona, perhaps Cornalba's most devoted local.

Access

Take the motorway A4 Milano-Venezia, exit at Dalmine and turn off left for Val Brembana. After 11 km join up with th SS40 and keep left for Val Brembana. After Zogno (22 km), turn right for Zamba-Cornalba and enter Val Serina. After 10km turn off right following signs for Cornalba, and after 1km turn right again. Reach the village centre and follow signs for the crag. Parking is possible close to the Bar-Restaurant Vico (tel. 0345-66446). From the bar continus on foot in 10 minutes to the crag.

Period

The altitude (1100m) and the orientation south and east make climbing possible all year round.

Climb

Technical vertical face climbing. Routes tend to be crimpy and cruxy.

Notes

Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+, Cornalba

Bibliography

"Pesci, Quaresima, Capucciati, Tassi - Arrampicate Sportive fra Bergamo e Brescia - Edizioni Versante Sud, 1996".




Sectors

Parete Sud Tempi Nuovi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Appare bao 15m 6c
2 Enfant prodige 15m 7b
3 S.N. 16m 7a
4 Mon cherì 15m 6b+
5 carillon 60m 7a, 7b
6 Quisse 20m 7c
7 Tempi nuovi 60m 6a, 6a+, 7a
8 Via del Camos 60m 7a+, 7a, 6b+
9 Variante 10m 6c
10 S.N. 16m 7c
11 Via del Ciusse 25m 7a+
12 Via del diedro 20m 5c
13 S.N. 22m 6b
14 Slot Machine 20m 8a+
15 Settimo senso 15m 8c
16 S.N. 25m 7a+
Parete Sud Apache
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
17 Feed Back 25m 8b
18 Feed Back2 15m 8a
19 C'era una volta in America 40m 8c
20 Outsider 25m 8a+
21 Apache 8a, 8a+, N.L.
22 Mandrake 60m 7c,7b,N.L.
22 Zuper-Mandrake 35m 8c/8c+
23 Partoloco 20m 6a+
24 Ariane 25m 6c
25 Totem 24m 6c+
26 Via della Fessura 80m 6a+, 6a, 6c
27 Artrosi 28m 6c
28 FBL 25m 8a+
29 Magic Moment 26m 6c+
30 Nos Otros 25m 8a+
31 Artemide 7c, 6c
32 El Santo 30m 7a
33 Onde Gravitazionali 27m 7a
34 Variante 10m N.L.
35 Fotonica 20m 6c+
35 Fuffuruffu 20m 6c
36 Miranda 20m 7a+
37 Via del Gastù 18m 6a
38 Via delle Dindone 18m 6b
39 Via delle barbone 15m 6b+
40 Robocop 30m, 40m 5a, 5a
41 Pinocchio 30m, 30m 5a, 5a
42 Il diedro 40m 6a
43 Svalutation 25m 8a
44 Crock 20m 6b
45 Crack 20m 6c+
46 La vie en Rose 40m 6c, 6a
47 Variante 20m 6a
48 Cocco Bil 20m 6a+
49 Antares 15m, 12m 6c, 7b
50 Alpha Centauri 15m 7a
51 Solo gli Dei 60m 7c, 7a+, 6a
52 Solar Fire 25m 7a+, N.L.,
53 Turisti nel vuoto 50m 7c, 6c
54 La piccola manetta lombarda 25m 6c+
55 Sioux 35m 7a
56 Happy Birthday 7a, 6b
Parete Sud Dolce Vita
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
56 Senza Nome 30m 6c
56 Bella Frittella 30m 6a
57 Ambra 28m 6b+
58 Gina la suina 28m 6c+
59 Frau 22m 7a
60 Saigon 24m 7a
61 La dolce vita 24m 7a+
62 Cosmic Debris 20m 7b+
63 Mano Gialla 15m 7b
Parete Est Figli del Vento
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
64 Crik 20m 6b
65 Crok 20m 6c+
66 Top Lazzaro 25m 6c
67 Apollo 7a+, 7a+
68 Gypsy Queen 7b, N.L.
69 Les Sindacalistes 30m 8c+
70 Figli del Vento 7b+, 8a
71 Andamento lento 45m 8b
72 Vento nei capelli 35m N.L.
72 Evanescence
73 Miss Lily 25m 8a+
74 S.N. 7c+
75 Indios 40m 6b+
76 Caminone 80m 5+, 5+,6a
77 Zeus 30m 8a
78 Neuromante N.L.
79 Lola 25m 7a
80 Jeremy Johnson 60m 6c, 6b, 7a+
81 Bellatrix 25m 7a
82 Orion 20m 7b+
83 Muck 20m 7b+
84 Sincroclash 25m 8b
85 Peter Pan 25m 8a+
86 Ursus 22m 6c
87 Il nano 25m 7c, N.L.
88 Rabdomante 20m 7b+
89 Phobos 20m 6a+
Parete Est Jedi
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
90 Coccodrillo roof 12m 7a
91 Rambo roof 12m 6c
92 Dito prensile 7a, 8a
93 Klein aber schwer 7b
94 Highlander 25m 8a
95 Jedi 25m 8b
96 Thomas son 20m 6a
97 Sciola 85 35m 7a, 6b+
98 Conan 25m 6b+
99 Kiowa 25m 7b
100 Mescalero 23m 7b+
101 Resin rouge 40m 8b+
102 El Morisco 40m 8b+
103 Replay 40m 8a, 7c+
104 Aquila di notte 60m 6c, 7b, N.L.
105 Bucolica 50m 6a+, 7a+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8c+
Height
200m
Rock type
Excellent slightly overhanging limestone.
Orientation
S, E
Rope
70m


Position



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