Massone (Arco), Italy, Trentino

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Massone, the symbol of sport climbing at Arco

Planetmountain

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

4a - 9b

Height

40m

Routes number

163

Rock type

Limestone

Orientation

Rope

70m

Without a doubt one of the most famous crags in Italy and beyond, Massone offers something for everyone. It hosts over 150 routes of all difficulties and angles, from easy slabs to extreme overhangs. The routes climb compact limestone, up edges and tufas, and the entire crag has recently been rebolted. Its ease of access, the picnic area below and the pleasant olive groves help make Massone one of the most popular crags in Northern Italy. It's only negative aspect is the other side of this coin: many of the routes have become extremely polished and the crag, a victim of its own success, is often overcrowded...

The crag can be divided up into three sections. The first, Massone Basso, is ideal for those who climb between 5a-7a, and the routes are on vertical or slabby grey limestone. The second, La Valletta, requires stamina and finger strength for its 35m, slightly overhanging routes, ragning from 7a to 8a. The third, Il Pueblo has become a refereence point for the ultra-overhanging, where strength and stamina are never quite enough... from 7c upwards.

At present climbing is prohibited at the puablo from Hochzeitspfeiler rightwards. These routes have not been included in this list.

Access

From Arco take the highway SS 45 bis towards Trento. After less than 1 km turn off right following signs for Massone. Enter the village, drive through a narrow portico and turn left at the fountain (drinking water). Follow this road up through the olive groves to park infront of the crag at the first hairpin bend or, alternatively, lower down on the left. This land is privately owned - please be a respectful as possible.

Period

All year round

Bibliography

Best of Arco
Sportclimbing Guide: Arco, Valle del Sarca, Valli Giudicarie, Trento, Rovereto
Autore: Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer
Editore: Vertical-Life

Arco Rock
106 crags – Valle del Sarca, Trento, Rovereto, Valli Giudicarie
Mauro Manica, Antonella Cicogna, Davide Negretti by Versante Sud

Arco Arrampicate dal Lago di Garda al Brenta
by Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner

Cesar Grosso climbing Pure Dreaming 9a at Massone, Arco -

Laura Rogora - Laura Rogora at Massone in Arco, Italy, has repeated Pure Dreaming Plus, a 9a+ sports climb first ascended by Adam Ondra. The Roman climber is now the first Italian woman, and only the fifth woman in the world after Margo Hayes (02/2017), Anak Verhoeven (09/2017), Angela Eiter (10/2017) and Julia Chanourdie (03/2020).

Eric Albertini, Massone, Arco - Eric Albertini climbing Pure Dreaming at Massone, Arco, the 9a freed by Adam Ondra in February 2018

Trekking Lake Garda - Trekking Lake Garda: the sports crag Massone

Massone Arco - Massone and view south onto Lake Garda

Trekking delle Cave di Oolite a Massone -

Eva Hammelmüller, Underground, Massone, Arco - Austrian climber Eva Hammelmüller sending Underground at Massone, Arco (TN)

Gabriele Moroni - Gabriele Moroni repeating Underground, Massone, Arco

Domen Skofic - Domen Škofic climbing Reini’s Vibes 8c/+ at Massone, Arco

Lukasz Dudek - Lukasz Dudek climbing Underground at Massone, Arco

Alberto Gnerro - Alberto Gnerro climbing Reinis Vibes

Jacopo Larcher - Jacopo Larcher climbing Super maratona 8b a Massone, Arco

Massone - Arco (Tn) - Lynn Hill at Massone (Arco - Tn)

Massone, Arco - Angela Eiter climbing Reini's Vibes 8c/+, Massone, Arco

See all photos

Sectors

Settore A

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Piccola Luna	15m	4a
2	Formica Lodovica	16m	5a
3	Giacca gialla	16m	5b
4	Banane Fisch	17m	5a/b
5	Lara Croft	18m	5c
6	Gelateria Tarifa	10m	6a+
7	Easy rider	10m	6c
8	Alce volante	12m	6a
9	Boiacca	12m	5c
10	Giuditta	18m	6a
11	Pesce d'Aprile	20m	6a
12	Skoda	20m	6b
13	Gocce d'ansia	20m	6b
14	Pegasus	20m	6a+
15	Zac	18m	5a
16	Tac	18m	5a

Settore B

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	?	20m	6a+
2	Fra fra	20m	6b
3	Fur eine hand	18m	6a+
4	Dottor Plantier	15m	6a
5	Zlù	20m	6a
6	Nino	20m	6a
7	Tangram	22m	6a+
8	La bamba	10m	7a+
9	The Mirror	20m	6c
10	Spectrum	20m	6b+
11	Red point	20m	7a+
12	Mirta del pineto	20m	7a+
13	Marsabit	15m	7c
14	Stressami	15m	7c
15	Desiree	15m	7b
16	Loacher	15m	7b+
17	Not normal	15m	7a
18	Vite minori	25m	6c
19	Let me life	23m	7b
20	Il ladro	23m	8a
21	C'è qualcuno	25m	7b/c
22	Deasy	25m	6c
23	Tis sa arc	25m	6b+
24	Cannonau	25m	7a
25	Crisi	25m	7a
26	Via le man	25m	7a
27	Marlene	25m	7a+
28	Greta	25m	7a
29	Sulla pancia	25m	7c+
30	Mantide Atea	25m	6c+
31	Variante diretta	10m	7b+
32	I buoni cattivi	25m	7c
33	Sangit	25m	7a+
34	Panico sopra l'orlo	25m	7c
35	Profumo di invisibile	25m	8a
36	Soviet supremo	25m	7b
37	Berverly Hills	25m	7b+
38	Kabul	25m	6b
39	I like Gorba	27m	6c
40	Killer event	20m	7b+
41	Action direct	25m	6c+
42	Incantesimo	20m	8a
43	Ricky bike	20m	8a

Settore C

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Musetto e Big Gim	22m	6b+
2	Super Golia	25m	6c+
3	Heliotrop	25m	7b
4	Berny	25m	7c+
5	Ictus	25m	6c+
6	Destinazione arena	25m	7c+
7	Sabato turistico	24m	6c
8	Prime impressioni	24m	6a
9	Tullio e l'amore	23m	6a/b
10	Hurgada	18m	6b
11	Over booking	18m	6a
12	Raper	18m	5c
13	Settima luna	16m	6c+
14	Ectoplasma	18m	6b
15	Odio la polvere	18m	6b
16	L'unicorno	15m	5c/6a
17	Stattento	15m	5c/6a
18	Impetrite's	15m	5b
19	Marina's	15m	5a

Settore D

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Rettoscopie	22m	6b+
2	Il culto	20m	6b
3	Fata Morgana	20m	7a+
4	Il ritorno di Aly	20m	6b+
5	Ulla	20m	6c
6	Un bacio di Karin	20m	7a+
7	Halloween	20m	7a
8	Ottopromille	20m	6c+
9	Briciola	18m	6c

Settore E

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Brioche	15m	7c
2	La chiave	25m	7b+
3	Utopia	25m	6b+/6c
4	Zelda	20m	7c
5	Red rocks	20m	8a
6	Alpen liebe	28m	6c+
7	Il calabrese	28m	7c
8	Open area	30m	8a+/8b
9	M.S.	30m	7c
10	Beach boys	30m	7b
11	Bauernplus	25m	8a, 8a+
12	Disneyland	25m	7c
13	Efrem de Sisco	25+10m	7a+
14	Rubagotti	25+15m	7c
15	Epilogo	35m	7a+
16	Bonsai	35m	7c(8a?)
17	Abissi	40m	7c
18	Pilotwings	35m	7c
19	Cannabis	30m	7b+
20	Only locals	30m	7b+
21	Gameboy	25m	7b
22	Gameboy plus	35m	8a
23	Ultimo dubbio	25m	7a+
24	Il vizzietto	30m	7c
25	La cucina	25m	8a
26	Fessura porta	27m	7ab
27	Il cattivo ist überall	25m	7c
28	Meglio un giallo	25m	7c
29	Ramses	25m	7c
30	Ludness	25m	7a
31	Warner broz	23m	7b
32	Il ballatoio	23m	6c
33	la cura della fessura	23m	6c
34	Mangia cacca	22m	7a
35	Gino e la sfiga	20m	6b+
36	Lo scolaro	20m	6b+
37	Aladin	12m	7a
38	Adelante	12m	7a+
39	Duracell	12m	7b
40	??	12m	6b

Settore F - Pueblo

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	Blondhopf	22m	7b+
2	Troppo Leicht	22m	7b+
3	Troppo Schwar	22m	8b
4	Super attico	24m	7c+
5	Haleboop	24m	8b+
6	Grado dipendenti	25m	7c
6	Taifun		8b/8b+
7	Big spender	22m	7b+
8	Randa	25m	8a+
9	Fuego	25m	8b
10	Underground	22m	9a
10	Ultimatum	22m	9a+
	F.A. Stefano Ghisolfi 12/2016. Conection Underground, Reini’s vibes, Pietra Murata, L'ultima pietra, Stonehenge
10	Under Vibes	22m	9a
	F.A. Stefano Ghisolfi 2015.
10	Thunder Ribes	22m	9a
	F.A. Stefano Ghisolfi 2015
11	X-large	25m	8c
12	Super maratona	25m	8b
13	Maratona	25m	8b
14	Athena	25m	8b+
15	Reini's Vibes	25m	8c
16	La pietra murata	45m	8b+
17	Progg.		8a+
18	Shaved beaver	25m	7c
19	Flytrap	25m	7a
20	Twingo	25m	7b+
21	KathaMartina	25m	7b
22	Mike Jordan	20m	8b
23	Thin Ice	22m	7b
24	Spleen	22m	7a
25	Hochseitzpfeiler	28m	8a+/8b

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