Nicholas Hobley
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Lauren Lee high on Eve Line, an ultra classic 7b in the Verdon Gorge, France
Keith Ladzinski
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a-8c
Height
400m
Routes number
800
Rock type
Compact grey limestone
Orientation
South, West and North


If the mountaineering trilogy is composed of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn, the climbing equivalent is the Verdon, Ceuse and Buoux. In certain respects these “mythical three” were the birthplace of sports climbing during the 1980's and '90's, each different, yet each one with three fundamental characteristics: a breathtaking natural setting, incredible limestone, and hundreds of top quality routes.

The steep walls of the Gorges du Verdon witnessed the entire evolution of this sport: from long trad routes opened from below in the '70's, up to the introduction and systematic use of bolts in the 1980's and ‘90’s. Single pitch routes became the norm, as did top roping, invented here they say, and bolting from above. For obvious reasons. And the Verdon remains unique perhaps also because of this: that to reach the routes, you need to abseil down into a truly impressive drop.

A frightening drop, above routes that have made their way into the history books; classics such as La Demande established over two days in 1968 by François Guillot and Joel Cöqueugniot, Pichenibule, Ctuluh, Gwendal, Debiloff Proffondicum, l’Ange en decomposition, Surveiller et Punir, Papy on sight, Les Specialistes… the list is endless. As is the list of main activists: Jaques Perrier, Jean Marc Troussier, the Remy brothers, Jean Baptist Tribout, Patrick Edlinger, Bruno Clément… all attracted to this incredible limestone which, for its quality, has become world reference point.

Nowadays the steep Verdon walls are no longer the stage for the world’s elite. Their eyes look elsewhere, towards the super-overhangs. But the attraction of these technical slabs, set in magnificent surroundings, remains strong. The triology: a climber’s dream. At least once in a lifetime.

Access

From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud. From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Turn left shortly before entering the village along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.

Period

Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.

Climb

Highly technical slab climbing on steep compact limestone.




Sectors

Mami e Ctuluh
Two beautiful sectors, ideal for getting used to the compact limestone and the massive drop. Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path left through the shrub. Pay particular attention when walking close to the edge of the cliff.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Pichenibule 6a/b, 6c+, 5c, 7b+, 5c
2 Bête à Sexe 5c
3 Le Rideaux de Gwendal 6c, 6b+, 7b, 6c, 6b+, 6c+, 6a, 5b
4 Ctuluh 6c+, 6a
5 Le Genou de Claire 7b+, 7c+, 6b
6 Salta Minchia! Ce una Stella che Cade 6c
7 Haute Tension 7b+
8 Wide is love 6a, 6a
9 Abgnégation 7c+
10 Biscotte Magarine 6b+
11 Wall of Woodoo 8a+, 6b+
12 Microsporum Canis A26a, A26a, 5c, A26a, A26a, A26a, A26a, A36a
13 Gaffe dans les Dos 7a+, 6b, 5a
14 Tarsinge l'Homme Zan 5c
15 A moi les Vivants 5b, 5b+
16 Tarpet Farceur 5b+
17 Opera Verticouenne 5c
18 Face au Public 5b, 5b+
19 Mami-Nova 5b
20 Éclopante
Fenrir
Sector Fenrir is one of the famous sectors in the Verdon, boasting calibre routes such as Rêve de Fer, Alerte au Gaz and L'Ange en Décomposition. Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path right up through the shrub. The sector is mar
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Toujourjamè 5b, 5b/c, 5c/6c, 4c/5a, 5c/6a, 4c
2 Pain et Chocolat 6b, 5c
3 Barbapoupon 6b, 6b+, 6a+, 6a
4 Rivière d'Argent 6b+, 5c, 6b+, 5c, 5c
5 Fenrir 7a+, 7c+/A1/6a, 5c, 5c, 5c, 6c, 6a
6 Tronche à Noeud 7a+, 6b+
7 L'Ange en Décomposition 6c, 7a, 6a
8 Alerte au Gaz 6c+, 7a+, 6b+/6c
9 Rêve de Fer 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b+
10 Le Rêver c'est Bien le Faire cest Mieux 6c
11 Jour d'été 6c, 6c
12 Zizagutti 7b, 6b, 6b, 6a+, 6b+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4a-8c
Height
400m
Routes number
800
Rock type
Compact grey limestone
Orientation
South, West and North


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