Nicholas Hobley
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Climbing Cato/Zulu 6b+ at Nago,one of the most popular crags at Arco, Italy
Francesco Piardi
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4c - 7c
Height
40m
Routes number
113
Rock type
Grey compact limestone. In some sections yellowish/orange.
Orientation
South
Rope
70m rope


Perched high above the picturesque hamlet of Nago and nestled deep into the gentle slopes of Mount Baldo lies a long sliver of compact limestone: a near perfect crag, doubtlessly one of the most beautiful and interesting in the entire Arco area.

Nago hosts almost 120 routes from 4c to 7c; all are long and technical and climb the steep vertical limestone slabs: stamina for the small crimps, and technique for the Verdon-like shallow pockets and runnels, are key to success. Most routes are graded 6a - 6c and this, coupled with the excellent bolting, easy access, south-facing orientation and splendid view over Lake Garda, render Nago extremely popular. At times unfortunately excessively so but, if need be, the routes in the upper sectors are usually less crowded.

Access

Reach Nago along the highway SS240, turn off this main road by the roundabout and petrol station and drive through the old town, following signs for Monte Baldo. Once out of the village turn off left (following signs for Rampicata) to reach the car park at the foot of the crag. From here continue on foot up the obvious path to the crag (10 mins). Alternatively, continue up the road following signs for Monte Baldo to the hairpin bend. Park the car here and follow the path down from the curve to the crag.

Beware: thieves operate in this area. Do not leave any valuables in the car. This land is privately owned - please be a respectful as possible.

Period

The crag faces south. Climbing is possible all year round, but the best times of year spring and autumn. Climbing is possible on windless days in winter, and windy afternoons in summer.

Climb

Technical stamina climbing; crimps, shallow pockets and runnels.
Total number of routes:
4: 6
5: 18
6a: 19
6b: 19
6c: 15
7a: 20
7b: 15
7c: 5
8c+: 8

Notes

The crag receives the brunt of the Ora wind (in the afternoon in summer and in the morning in winter), making this crag the fastest to dry after extended periods of rain. Mount Baldo is also known as the "Garden of Europe" for it's botanical richness.

Bibliography

Best of Arco ...Sportclimbing Guide: Arco, Valle del Sarca, Valli Giudicarie, Trento, Rovereto
Autore: Manuel Senettin, Thomas Hofer
Editore: Vertical-Life

Arco
Rock
106 crags – Valle del Sarca, Trento, Rovereto, Valli Giudicarie
Mauro Manica, Antonella Cicogna, Davide Negretti by Versante Sud

Arco Arrampicate dal Lago di Garda al Brenta
by Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner




Sectors

Settore A
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Un bar per Rita 10m 5c
2 Buon anno 12m 5b
3 Flash 10m 7c
4 ? 20m 8c
5 ? 18m 7a+
6 Vogue 20m 6a
7 Nuvola rossa 22m 6a
8 Giochi d'ombra 22m 5c
9 Take it easy 22m 5c
10 Il calabrone 15m 5b
11 Ramba 20m 6a
12 Phantom 20m 6b+
13 Chiedi a Beppo 20m 6b
14 Panorama 20m 6b+
15 Kira 20m 6c
16 Il panettiere 20m 6c+
17 Good morning 20m 7c+
18 Mario lo sa 20m 7b
19 Ruggero lo perfido 23m 6a+
20 Fuori orario 15m 6c
Settore B
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
21 Bali 10m 6a
22 Visigoti 10m 6a
23 Unni 8m 4c
24 Zuppa zuppa 27m 3, 6a
25 Parampampoli 27m 3, 6b
26 Alcor 12m 5b
27 Winkinbongo 12m 5b
28 Asdù 10m 5c
29 Enzo Molinari 10m 5c
30 Il capriccio 20m 7c
31 Supermario 22m 7b+
32 Gobazio 25m 6a+
33 La mandria 25m 6a
34 Mario Polenta 25m 6a
35 Lillila 25m 6a+
Settore C
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
36 La placca 40m 5c, 6a+
37 Cato-zulù 30m 6b+
38 Lo sconosciuto 30m 6b+
39 Peach-Pitt 20m 6c
40 Torpedo 20m 7a+
41 Mammalucco 25m 7a
42 Genesi 25m 7a
43 ? 25m 6b+
44 Astuzio 12m 6b+
45 Esuli lontani 25m 7a
46 La nonna va 25m 6c+
47 Tasmania 25m 7a
48 Crisalide 25m 6b+
49 Facile 25m 4c
50 Asdo da Melch 25m 7c
51 Grisù 25m 7a+
52 Lucacappiotti 38m 7b+
53 Dago 38m 7b+
54 Eh Mersh 38m 7b
55 Culo dritto 22m 7b
56 Uligani Dangereux 25m 7a+
57 Passeggeri del vento 40m 7b+
58 Lunatica 18m 7b
59 Boulevard 40m 7c
60 Per sempre Mary 40m 7b+
61 I soliti ignoti 20m 7a
62 Sbargek 20m 6b+
63 Lupo Alberto 40m 6c+, 7a+
64 Titanic 35m 7a+
65 Iceberg 35m 7a+
66 Gandalf 25m 6c
67 Esodo 25m 6b
68 Cohelet 25m 6b+
Settore D
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
69 Troppo buoni 15m 5b
70 Nervermore 20m 6c+
71 Spleen 20m 6b
72 Equinox 20m 6a
73 Gerico 15m 6a
74 Night'fly 20m 5c
75 Super tramp 18m 5c
76 Good bye stranger 15m 6a
77 Cif 15m 5b
78 Ragionier Filini 15m 5c
79 mMega direttore 15m 5c
80 Alvarez 15m 6b+
81 Aquilante 15m 6b
82 Il generale 15m 6c
83 Firminik 20m 6a+
84 Il fachiro 20m 6b+
85 Patti Sassi 18m 5b
Settore E
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
86 King lear 25m 7a
87 Cassio 18m 6c+
88 Lago 18m 6c
89 Rosencantz 15m 7a+
90 Guildenstern 30m 6b+
91 Medea 20m 6a+
92 Agave 20m 7b
93 Alena 15m 6b+
94 Gonnerilla 15m 7a
95 Regana 18m 6b
96 Cordelia 18m 6a
Settore F
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
97 Albatros 25m 7a
98 Little crack 10m 5c
99 Franz und Andrea 27m 7a
100 Das Glassperlenspiegel 25m 6c
101 Patience dans l'azur 20m 6c+
102 Cyclops 28m 7a
103 Odyssey 35m 7b+
104 Nausica 35m 7b
105 Prometeus 38m 7a+, 7a
106 La tana dei ciclopi 20m 7a+
107 Lotus 34m 7b+, 8a
108 Heracles 30m 7c, 7c+
109 Mac becht 10m 7c
110 Marino il ... 15m 4b
111 Ugo il paciugo 15m 4b
112 Pio albergo 18m 6c
113 C'è qualcosa 15m 6a+





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