Punta Giradili, described by many as one of Sardinia's finest sea cliffs, is breathtaking. It offers fantastic climbing and stunning views onto the Mediterranean sea over 400m below.
Follow the SS125 to Baunei and turn left shortly before entering the village proper (sign for Ristorante del Golgo). Continue steeply uphill, turn right at the first hairpin bend (signposted Monte Ginnirco) and follow the dirt track to where it joins another road. Turn right, continue down into the valley and up past the second hairpin bend to then turn right into the Cuile Despiggius opening. Park here and proceed on foot over the gate, through the small farm and on down along the obvious path beneath the buttress to the start of the routes. Allow 30 min for the walk-in.
LogisticsWild camping is strictly prohibited in the National Park, but the municipal campsite in Cala Gonone is prohibitively expensive! Rooms or apartments can easily be found by asking around - expect to pay between 15-20 euro/head.There are small supermarkets in Cala Gonone and Baunei, while to the north of Olbia there is an enormous out-of-town shopping mall.
PeriodAutumn or spring. September is particularly good since the sea is beautifully warm and the island relatively free of tourists. Summer is unbearably hot and winter can often be too cold and windy.
ClimbTechnical vertical face climbing up sharp, compact, grey limestone.
NotesGetting to Sardinia
By plane: fly to Cagliari, Olbia or Alghero and then hire a car.
By car: take one of the numerous ferries from Genova, Livorno, Rome or Naples to Olbia. From Olbia take the highways SS125 and SS131 southwards towards Nuoro. Exit before Nuoro following signs to Dorgali. Shortly after this town a signposted road leads left through a tunnel down to Cala Gonone (approx. 100km, 1.5 hrs).
Baunei is reached via the winding SS125 from Dorgagli in about an hour (50km).
For ferry information visit either www.mobylines.it or www.corsicaferries.com
News Sardinia | |
www.sardiniaclimb.com |
Pietra Di Luna - a guide to sport climbing in Sardinia - Crags by Maurizio Oviglia (Fabula 2011)
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mediterraneo | 6b+, 6a+, 6b+, 7a+, 6b, 6a, 6c, 6c | ||
2 | L'intelligenza emotiva | 6c+, 7b, 6b, 6a, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 6b+ | ||
3 | Piola Motto | 7a, 6c+, 6b+, 6c, 6c+, 6c | ||
4 | Wolfgang Güllich | 6c, 6b, 7a, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6c, 6b+, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6b |