Nicholas Hobley
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Piotr Schab making the first ascent, onsight, of Baby Boy at Cuenca in Spain on 27/06/2018
Darek Kaluza
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4b - 8c+
Height
40m
Routes number
327
Rock type
Limestone.
Orientation
S, N, E
Rope
60m rope


World Heritage Site, for the town or for its climbing? Good question, because both are incredible! Located circa 170km east of Madrid, this medieval fortified town is positioned defensively on the cliffs overlooking the Huécar and Jucar rivers. Over millions of years these rivers forged their way ever downwards, leaving behind wide gorges with exceptional yellow streaked limestone walls. And it is on these cliffs that some of the most intricate climbing in Spain takes place.

The climbing is by no means easy: the pocketed limestone is often violent and painfully sharp. But this detracts nothing from the routes and crags, which with 300+ routes remain an important climbing destination, especially in winter, early spring and late autumn. Come here for the high density of excellent quality routes, but also come here to soak in some Spanish past and present. Although the town sleeps gently during the day, it really does spring into life by night!

By the way, UNESCO justifies its nomination as follows: "an exceptional example of the medieval fortress town that has preserved its original townscape remarkably intact ... It is also exceptional because the walled town blends into and enhances the fine rural and natural landscape within which it is situated."

Access

Cuenca lies 170km east of Madrid. From Madrid take the motorway A3 to Tarancón then continue along the N400 to Cuenca.

Logistics

Campsites just outside Cuenca.

Period

Winter, spring, autumn. Summer can be too hot.

Climb

Powerful pocket climbing on sharp rock.
Total number of routes: 327
4: 2
5: 22
6a: 20
6b: 37
6c: 39
7a: 52
7b: 65
7c: 41
8a: 32
8b +: 17

Notes

On a rest day visit nearby "Ciudad Encantada."

Camping Cuenca

Bibliography

Guia de escaladas en Cuenca - Desnivel




Sectors

Las Colmenas
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Enfundar antes de usar 7a
2 El m˙sculo del amor 6c+
3 Elegido para la Gloria 6c
4 Whisky, tabaco y rock and roll 6c
5 La colmena 7b+
6 El chulo del corral 6c
7 Plastiplasma plus 7b
8 Vaya vall 7b+
9 Remember my name 7c+
10 Nanguel Valdes 7c+
11 Sunset boulebard 7a
12 Insumisos pasivos 7a
13 Don paquete 6a
14 Arroyito y pozuelon 6b
15 Cuando llege, comeremos todos polla 6c+
16 Manos de yeso 6b+
17 Discipulos del tino 6c
18 Sara 7a
19 Tamara 7a+
20 Pantera rosa 7a+
21 The parkinson forever 7a+
22 A la sombra de un ocho 7b+
23 Historia impepinable 7c
24 Agripina 7b+
25 Brigada super doce 7c
26 Zarajo 6c+
27 Hombres de cromaÒon 6b+
28 Pedricero burilero 7b+
29 Ars amandi 7c+
30 Nicomas mola mas 7c
31 Nico mas mola 7a+
32 Libre albedrio 7b+
33 Crimen de Cuenca 7c+
34 Paco, el deser-Thor 7b
35 Bordillo 5+





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
4b - 8c+
Height
40m
Routes number
327
Rock type
Limestone.
Orientation
S, N, E
Rope
60m rope


Position



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