Crépe de Oucèra Alti
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Luca Zardini climbing at Crepe de Oucera
Roberto Casanova
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8a+
Height
1800 m
Link
Rock type
Dolomite
Orientation
SSE
Rope
70 m rope
From a sports climbing point of view, the Crépe de Oucèra is one of the most important crags in the Cortina area and, together with the nearby Cinque Torri, to be considered one of the most important crags in the entire eastern Dolomites.Located at 1800m, the Crépe de Oucèra offers 70 pitches from 6a to 8a+. these are renowned for their beauty, ease of access and orientation, ensuring the crag's popularity not only in the hot summer months. The rock is solid with plenty of small weathered pockets and flakes, offering a variety of different climbing styles up the smooth vertical, slightly overhanging and extremely overhanging walls. Despite the fact that the crag is almost 20 years old, the bolting is excellent and the distance between the bolts varies, according to the difficulty and characteristics of each individual pitch. A somewhat easier alternative to the Crépe de Oucèra Alta are the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi, located a few hairpin bends lower down. Immersed in the green forest, the Crépe de Oucèra Bassi offer 80 pitches from 5a to 6b.
Access
From Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes Period
The Crépe are located between 1700 and 1800m. The crag faces SSE and is therefore ideal during spring, summer and autumn. Climbing is possible in winter if there is little snow. Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo by Roberto Casanova, Cierre Edizioni
From Cortina take the highway SS48 westwards towards passo Falzarego and turn off left at the Pocol junction onto the SS638 towards Passo Giau. Continue for about 4km to reach a long straight section and the Alta Via 1 path. Park here and take the rightmost path up to the crag in just 5 minutes Period
The Crépe are located between 1700 and 1800m. The crag faces SSE and is therefore ideal during spring, summer and autumn. Climbing is possible in winter if there is little snow. Bibliography
Arrampicata sportiva a Cortina d'Ampezzo by Roberto Casanova, Cierre Edizioni
Sectors
Primo Settore
The “Primo settore” is the most popular sector, with the vast majority of pitches between 6a-6c. highly recommended are “Pikindolor” and “Latte acido”.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Didò | 8m | 5 | |
2 | Momo | 10m | 5+ | |
3 | Gogo | 10m | 6a | |
4 | Snorki | 14m | 6a+ | |
5 | White Line | 14m | 6b | |
6 | Uomini gatto | 15m | 6b+ | |
7 | Klamera | 16m | 6c | |
8 | Melassa | 16m | 6b+ | |
9 | P38 | 16m + 14m | 6b+, 6b | |
10 | Latte acido | 20m + 18 + 12 + 8 | 6b+, 6b, 6a+, 6c | |
11 | Variante di dx Latte acido | 15m | 6b+ | |
12 | Variante Lete destra | 20m | 6c | |
13 | Variante Lete sinistra | 12m | 6c+ | |
14 | Variante Mente | 12m | 6c+ | |
15 | Fedora | 22m | 6a | |
16 | Spitta e spera | 20m | 7a | |
17 | Pikindolor | 20m + 15+ 12+ 8 | 6c, 6b+, 6a, 6b+ | |
18 | Variante Delirio cosmico | 16m | 7a+ | |
19 | Profumo di donna | 20m | 6c+ | |
20 | Odore di sudore | 20m | 6c | |
21 | Delirio cosmico | 20m + 16 + 12 + 14 | 6a, 7c, 7b, 6c | |
22 | Elettroshock | 15m | 7a | |
23 | Cuba libre | 26m | 7b | |
24 | Gin Fizz | 31m | 7b+ | |
25 | Petorada | 32m | 6c+ |
Settore Magica
The “Magica” sector takes its name after one of the most beautiful routes at the Crépe.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tequila gold | 20m+15 | 7a+, 6c | |
2 | Variante Tequila | 20m | 7a+/b | |
3 | Lemon Wodka | 20m | 7b+ | |
4 | Whisky and Soda | 18m | 7a | |
5 | Magica armonia | 24m | 7c | |
6 | Schizofrenica follia | 23m | 7c+ | |
7 | Patapunfete | 22m | 7a | |
8 | Fisiognomica | 22m | 8a+ | |
9 | Rebus | 16m | 7c | |
10 | Spittaggio confuso | 16m | 6c | |
11 | Cannonao d'alghero | 18m | 7a+ |
Settore Tetti
Athletic routes harder than 7b are to be found in the “Tetti” sector . After heavy rainfall this sector remains wet.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Via dell'orto | 18m | 6c+ | |
2 | Oro | 20m | 7b | |
3 | Incenso | 20m | 7b+ | |
4 | Birra | 20m | 6c+ | |
5 | Piccole canaglie | 34m | NL | |
6 | Babuska | 22m | 7b | |
7 | Caraibi bic | 22m | 7c | |
8 | Delta force | 22m | 7c | |
9 | Resinata | 24m | 8a | |
10 | SN | 22m | 7b+ | |
11 | Attibabao | 26m | 8a+ | |
12 | Urla nel silenzio | 26m | 7c+ | |
13 | Arcobaleno | 24m | 7c | |
14 | Sorcio parlante | 24m | 7c | |
15 | Diedro | 16m | 6c+ | |
16 | Polifemo | 16m | 7a+ | |
17 | Depressione | 18m | 7b | |
18 | Serpente piumato | 16m | n.l. |
Ultimo Settore
“Ultimo settore” is the highest sector and divided into two sections. “Dita di burro” is highly recommended.
Routes
N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Pappilion | 18m | 6b+ | |
2 | Scubidou | 18m | 6c | |
3 | Macomber | 20m | 6b+ | |
4 | Mandrake | 24m | 7a | |
5 | Viperone | NL | ||
6 | Polvere | NL | ||
7 | Dita di burro | 24m | 7c | |
8 | Par condicio | 22m | 7b+ | |
9 | Ultima tentazione | 18m | 7b+ | |
10 | Wagon-lit | 10m | 7a+ |
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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
6a - 8a+
Height
1800 m
Link
Rock type
Dolomite
Orientation
SSE
Rope
70 m rope
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