The routesClimbing routes
![End of the Flare](/uploads/img/3/94087.jpg)
End of the Flare ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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E5 6b (7a+)
End of the Flare climbs the prominent flake offwidth crack seen from the road close to Fornolosa. The first pitch is hidden in the trees and offers powerful and pumpy climbing.
![Fast & Furious](/uploads/img/3/96651.jpg)
Fast & Furious - Aiguille de Chatelet ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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6a+/6a oblig S3
Short but interesting outing up the South Face, forged ground-up with 10mm bolts over three days in June 2013.
![Fat Tony](/uploads/img/3/94089.jpg)
Fat Tony ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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E6 6b (7c)
Fat Tony climbs the leftwards diagonal crack with great difficulty until the roof is reached. After bathanging, continue to glory...!
![Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi](/uploads/img/3/101073.jpg)
Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi - Sergent ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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6a+
A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...
![Fessura di Gianfri](/uploads/img/3/102208.jpg)
Fessura di Gianfri - Nid Des Hirondelles - Valgrisenche ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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5.13 – 8a
Located at Nid Des Hirondelles, the first crag to be bolted in Valgrisenche, Fessura di Gianfri climbs the obvious diagonal crack that splits the huge overhang.
![Gervasutti](/uploads/img/3/92114.jpg)
Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…
![Il lato oscuro](/uploads/img/3/92240.jpg)
Il lato oscuro - Sergent ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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II/S2+/6c max
Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.
![Indurain tiene dos huevos](/uploads/img/3/92136.jpg)
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
![Itaca nel Sole Free](/uploads/img/3/99602.jpg)
Itaca nel Sole Free - Caporal ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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8b
Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...
![Jedi Master](/uploads/img/3/92239.jpg)
Jedi Master - Sergent ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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I/S2/6c+ max
Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.
![L'isola che non c’è](/uploads/img/3/100470.jpg)
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
![L'or du temps](/uploads/img/3/99788.jpg)
L'or du temps - Grand Capucin ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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7c+
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...
![Le Fou de l’Aiguille](/uploads/img/3/92169.jpg)
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
![Le manteau de l'Eveque](/uploads/img/3/93865.jpg)
Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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7a+
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
![Les Intouchables](/uploads/img/3/92117.jpg)
Les Intouchables - Trident du Tacul ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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ABO-, 7c+ max
Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...
![Les Pèlerins et la Dame](/uploads/img/3/93930.jpg)
Les Pèlerins et la Dame - Aiguille de l'Eveque ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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6c/A0
Interesting route with a beautiful second pitch. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.
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