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Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin

France>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Grand Capucin

Roberto Rossi

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Elixier d’Astaroth

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

M. Piola, P.A. Steiner e R. Vogler, 1981

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

South

Length

400m

Difficulty

ED+, 7a+ max, A2

Obligatory difficulty

6b+

Route

This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the cracks accept plenty of pro. Although not as famous as Voyage selon Gulliver, many consider this route harder and more beautiful than its neighbour.

Access
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin, in front of the Touronde. There are two small corners at the base of the route capped by small roofs; climb the right-hand corner. Descent
Abseil down to the left of the route. Excellent belays. Gear
A full rack of nuts and twin set of friends up to # 3. A hammer may be found useful for the aid pitch, especially at the start of the season.

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25/08/2004 Maurizio Zara

via splendida, diretta e centrale. Notevole impegno psicofisico

27/07/2003 Nicola Vonarburg

Supeba soprattutto per la ricerca del tracciato particolarmente astuto. Le difficoltà tecniche non sono elevatissime, ma comunque piuttosto impegnativa.

21/11/2001 Berichilli Patrick

non posso parlare che bene di questa via, molto dura nei passaggi chiave,ringrazzio Gianni che mi dato la possibiltà di scalarla,come prima esperienza sul Monte Bianco non la trovo male,andata e ritorno dal rif Torino 13 ore.

25/10/2001 M

Se non avete il "truffaldon" ovvero un luuuungo rinvio nastrato, portatevi martello e un "Bird Beak" Cassin per uscire dal tiro di artif...

Beauty

First ascent

M. Piola, P.A. Steiner e R. Vogler, 1981

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

South

Length

400m

Difficulty

ED+, 7a+ max, A2