The routes

40 anni rifugio Falier takes a beautiful line which cuts straight through the impressive pillar, visible from the hut below. First ascended over three days by Slovak climbers Igor Koller and Dino Kuran, it was freed by Roland Mittersteiner and...

Alta infedeltà, High infidelity, climbs the beautiful limestone slabs on Sasso delle Undici in the Marmolada group follows the most interesting looking rock. On the second pitch we came across lots of threads, unfortunately we weren’t so lucky on the...

Bruderliebe was first ascended in summer 2011 by Hansjörg Auer together with his brother Vitus. Hansjörg described the route as follows: "Bruderliebe is 19 pitches long with difficulties up to 8b/8b+. I established it ground-up this summer together with my...

Don Quixote is justifiably the classic line and, consequently, also the most repeated on the wall. The route climbs the characteristic rounded arête and pillar to the right of the routes Conforto - Bertoldi and Phillipp - Henger. It starts...

Great route on the righthand side of the face, up rough and very good quality rock. The climb takes advantage of the most beautiful and compact section, providing varied and elegant climbing in a fantastic setting. The in-situ gear is...

First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in summer 2000 over a four-day period from the ground-up, the route climbs an incredible line up the edge of the Cristina pillar to then continue through the center of the Lindo...

First ascended from the ground-up in 2003 with 8mm bolts, this nice 250m route takes a line up the left-hand side of the Gran Vernel buttress, the large east-facing wall which looks onto Lake Fedaia. The rock tends to be...

Madre Roccia climbs the right side of Specchio di Sara on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites). The route was first ascenedd between 2022 and 2023 by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani, with difficulties up to...

First ascended from the ground-up in 2007 with stainless steel bolts, Mastro Lindo takes a line to the right of Linea d'ombra. The second pitch is hard but well protected, all remaining pitches are fun up a series of pockets...

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...

Difficult and exposed climbing leads through the yellow eastern pillar of Cima dell’Auta, nicknamed “Pilastro Parmenide” after the famous philosopher Elea. The first section climbs free a series of slabs to the base ledge of the rock face, then continues...

The Schwalbenschwanz, or swallow’s tail, starts to the right of the Don Quixote, climbing up similar rough compact grey slabs. Like its neighbour it follows an intelligent and fun line of ascent, weaving its way up the line of least...

This classic route is one of the most repeated on the Marmolada. It follows a line up the South Pillar of Punta Penia, overlooking the Passo Ombretta, to the southwest of Marmolada’s immense south face. The Pillar is divided into...

Wonderful slab climb, never too difficult but not to be underestimated. Great quality rock, solid and with lots of holds. Established ground-up with bolts and pegs. All the gear used during the first ascent has been left insitu. The pro...

Tempi Moderni, or Modern Times, follows the line of central slabs without respite to the summit of Punta Rocca. It is a class route, absolutely one of the most beautiful on the South Face, both for the climbing it offers...