Opus Pocus - Piz Seràuta
Copia link
Geremia Vergoni
1 / 14
Opus Pocus
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Tiziano Buccella, Geremia Vergoni, 07/2007. First free ascent: 23/07/2009
By
Geremia Vergoni
Orientation
S
Length
200m
Height
3035m
Difficulty
8a max
Obligatory difficulty
7b/7b+
Route
Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro, worlds apart from the third pitch which is bolted otherwise unprotectable, with different difficulties altogether.
We felt this to be the correct choice and we attempted to respect the characteristics of the face as much as possible, using routes on Mont Blanc by Motto & Piola which are protected in this style as an example.
I believe the route is interesting thanks to the beauty of the rock and the individual pitches. It isn't particularly long like the rest of the routes on the Marmolada, but 200m is enough to have fun, perhaps a bit minimalist.
To climb the route successfully you need to be not only a strong climber, you also need to be skillful at placing natural pro. The route was first ascended from the ground up.
We felt this to be the correct choice and we attempted to respect the characteristics of the face as much as possible, using routes on Mont Blanc by Motto & Piola which are protected in this style as an example.
I believe the route is interesting thanks to the beauty of the rock and the individual pitches. It isn't particularly long like the rest of the routes on the Marmolada, but 200m is enough to have fun, perhaps a bit minimalist.
To climb the route successfully you need to be not only a strong climber, you also need to be skillful at placing natural pro. The route was first ascended from the ground up.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. Access
From Malga Ciapela 2 hours. Deatiled access to the Serauta can be found in the guidebook. The route takes a line on the obvious pillar to the left of the 1942 route Pisoni - Castiglioni.
Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
Kevlar for the threads, 12 quickdraws including some long ones to reduce rope drag on the second pitch, mid-large camming devices plus one small one for the start on pitch 1.
In-situ gear: stainless steel bolts and abseil rings on the belays, some pegs.
Notes
Given the difficult access to this section of the Marmolada we recommend you go only in stable weather as a descent in the rain may prove dangerous. It may be worth waiting out storms in the cave at the base of the wall (take warm clothes).
The first ascentionists would iike to call the pillar they first climbed Pilastro Bruno.
Maps/Bibliography
Marmolada, Parete Sud di Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. Access
From Malga Ciapela 2 hours. Deatiled access to the Serauta can be found in the guidebook. The route takes a line on the obvious pillar to the left of the 1942 route Pisoni - Castiglioni.
Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
Kevlar for the threads, 12 quickdraws including some long ones to reduce rope drag on the second pitch, mid-large camming devices plus one small one for the start on pitch 1.
In-situ gear: stainless steel bolts and abseil rings on the belays, some pegs.
Notes
Given the difficult access to this section of the Marmolada we recommend you go only in stable weather as a descent in the rain may prove dangerous. It may be worth waiting out storms in the cave at the base of the wall (take warm clothes).
The first ascentionists would iike to call the pillar they first climbed Pilastro Bruno.
Maps/Bibliography
Marmolada, Parete Sud di Maurizio Giordani, Versante Sud
See all photos
Comments
22/11/2010 Manuel Feller
grande Tato! devessere una gran bella via!
06/08/2010 Rolando Larcher
Bella ed impegnativa via, confermo l'obbligatorio. Provati solo i primi 3 tiri,il 2° superato a vista. Gradi severi, proporrei 8a per il 2° e 8a+ per il 3°.
Una serie completa di kamalot fino al 3
Accesso delicato, scabroso se cambia il tempo.
Complimenti a Tiziano e Geremia per l'ottima apertura.
09/12/2009 maurizio illuminati
linea fantastica ma quanti lo ripeteranno? sono dell'idea gradi inferiori e niente spit soprattutto in quantità
Beauty
First ascent
Tiziano Buccella, Geremia Vergoni, 07/2007. First free ascent: 23/07/2009
By
Geremia Vergoni
Orientation
S
Length
200m
Height
3035m
Difficulty
8a max
Obligatory difficulty
7b/7b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
29/07/2009 - Climbing
Marmolada Dolomites new climb On 23/07/2009 Geremia Vergoni and Tiziano Buccella carried out the first ascent of their Opus Pocus, on the remote south face of Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada, Dolomites.