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40 anni per il Falier: Roland on the third hard pitch
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Igor Koller, Dino Kuran, 1993. First free ascent: Roland Mittersteiner, Oliver Renzler 08/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
380m
Height
3247m
Difficulty
7c+
Period
Summer
Route
40 anni rifugio Falier takes a beautiful line which cuts straight through the impressive pillar, visible from the hut below. First ascended over three days by Slovak climbers Igor Koller and Dino Kuran, it was freed by Roland Mittersteiner and Oliver Renzler in summer 2010. The duo replaced all the original 8mm bolts and added a new bolt on the second crux pitch immediatly above the belay for safety reasons. The first four pitches mustn't be underestimated (!) and act as a "warm-up" to the system of cracks which, with interesting and varied climbing, lead to the top of the pillar.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. Access
From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. Itinerary
P1: 6c, 40m
P2: 6c, 30m
P3: 6b/c, 40m
P4: 6b, 45m
P5: 7c+, 35m
P6: 7b, 30m
P7: 7c+, 35m
P8: 7a, 45m
P9: 6a/5c, 40m Descent
Abseil down the route, 50m ropes suffice Gear
Necessary a complete set of camming devices, including a selection of large ones. There are very few in-situ pegs, almost all the pitches require additional friends and nuts. A bolt marks the startt.
Take the motorway A22 Modena-Brennero and exit, after Bolzano, at Ora. Drive up the Val di Fiemme to Predazzo, then up the Val di Fassa to Canazei. Continue on up to Passo Fedaia and then descend to Malga Ciapela. Access
From the car park at Malga Ciapela take path no. 610 to Rifugio Onorato Falier (2080m), nestled beneath the South Face of the Marmolada (1.15 hrs from Malga Ciapela). From Rif. Falier follow path no. 610, to the narrow hairpin bends where it points up to Passo d'Ombretta (west); traverse right (east) across alpine meadows upwards to a ramp that leads up the pedestal to the base of the routes. Itinerary
P1: 6c, 40m
P2: 6c, 30m
P3: 6b/c, 40m
P4: 6b, 45m
P5: 7c+, 35m
P6: 7b, 30m
P7: 7c+, 35m
P8: 7a, 45m
P9: 6a/5c, 40m Descent
Abseil down the route, 50m ropes suffice Gear
Necessary a complete set of camming devices, including a selection of large ones. There are very few in-situ pegs, almost all the pitches require additional friends and nuts. A bolt marks the startt.
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Beauty
First ascent
Igor Koller, Dino Kuran, 1993. First free ascent: Roland Mittersteiner, Oliver Renzler 08/2010
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
380m
Height
3247m
Difficulty
7c+
Period
Summer
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
13/08/2010 - Climbing
40 anni rifugio Falier, first free ascent by Mittersteiner and Renzler in Marmolada Roland Mittersteiner and Oliver Renzler have carried out the first free ascent of "40 anni rifugio Falier", established by Igor Koller and Dino Kuran in 1993 with the use of...