Madre Roccia - Marmolada d'Ombretta
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Maurizio Giordani
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archivio Maurizio Giordani
Madre Roccia climbs the right side of Specchio di Sara on the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites). The route was first ascenedd between 2022 and 2023 by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani, with difficulties up to 8b max and 7b obligatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed.
The result: around twenty pitches, completed by joining forces and optimising our strengths in the best possible way, in perfect harmony despite being a somewhat unusual team of four generations grouped together on the same route. Matteo and Iris returned to free the pitches on 28 and 29 September, grading the difficulties up to 8b max and 7b+ obligatory.
The description? Those who have already been on this wall can easily imagine what it's all about... those who haven't been there yet should imagine incredibly compact rock, vertical if not overhanging, with very few chances to place gear and long runouts between the bolts, cams and pegs. This is what the climbing is like on the lower section while the upper section, above the ledge, has a less sporty but decidedly more alpine feel to it, with beautiful slabs at the bottom and steep corners and loose chimneys at the top.
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