The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

341
Routes in archive
Eknaton
Eknaton - Gran Paradiso
III/4+
If you're lucky enough to follow a beaten track then the icefall is well worth the 2 hour walk-in, either on snowshoes or skis. The ambience is truly cold, but the last two sun-kissed pitches will remain etched in your...
Hard ice in the rock
Hard ice in the rock - Gran Paradiso
III/4
Superb route in a grandiose ambience. An extremely satisfying climb. In particularly good seasons the first two pitches form a spectacular hanging drip (70m III 5+). This has happened twice in the last 15 years.
Pattinaggio artistico
Pattinaggio artistico - Gran Paradiso
II/3
Interesting ice fall which climbs a series of drips, never too sustained. The ambience is truly special, with views onto Mont Blanc. In particularly good seasons the first drip forms (50m II - 4+/5)
Lillaz Gully
Lillaz Gully - Gran Paradiso
II/4
Superb and varied ice climb in a great winter ambience with views onto Mont Blanc.
Cascata di Chevreres
Cascata di Chevreres
II/3
Pleasant icefall, free of objective dangers and, thanks to its easy access, ideal for those with little time. To finish off the day, climb some pitches in the gully below.
Tuborg
Tuborg - Gran Paradiso
II/4
Much repeated classic, almost always in condition. Tuborg receives the morning sun for a couple of hours.
Vertigine di Porcellana
Vertigine di Porcellana - Gran Paradiso
II/3 (D+)
Vertigine di Porcellana is a great classic, much repeated as it is almost always in condition.The icefall receives the sun for circa 1.30 hours and is recommended when there is little snow or the snow pack has settled since, like...
Cold Couloir
Cold Couloir - Gran Paradiso
IV/4+
Cold couloir is a grand and magnificent climb, often in good conditions. The icefall is long and similar to routes at altitude. Most climbers reach the top of pitch 5 and then abseil off as the upper section proves less...
Cascata delle Attraversate
Cascata delle Attraversate - Marmolada
II/4
This icefall is often used by beginners when learning how to ice climb. The route starts on a slab then climbs the drip to the left. After this the route traverses right, as the name suggests, to belay on rock....
Il sentiero dei Troll
Il sentiero dei Troll - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3
Sentiero dei Troll resembles an iced gully and is a classic icefall in the famous Valnontey valley.
Cascata del Fortino
Cascata del Fortino
I/2; II/3-4
The Cascata del Fortino, the fort icefall, is one the first to come into condition at the start of the season and is highly popular also thanks to its easy access. After the first 60m section the climb continue via...
Direttissima di Patry
Direttissima di Patry - Valnontey - Cogne
II/5,5+
Direttissima di Patry does not always form but, when it does, Mother Nature offers a true work of art which simply must be climbed. The drip wedged is in between the classic finish on the left and Candelone di Patri...
Candelone di Patry
Candelone di Patry - Valnontey - Cogne
II/4+,5
Candelone di Patry is certainly a more beautiful finish than Patry Classica, but somewhat more serious. The great 50m pitch is a fantastic combination to the first part of Patry up into the amphitheatre.
Patry classica
Patry classica - Valnontey - Cogne
II/3+,4
An extremely beautiful icefall, one of the most repeated routes in the valley and consequently often crowded. Not to be missed nevertheless. All belays have been equipped with with bolts. The first big drip leads to an amphitheatre, from where...
Kofler
Kofler
II/4+
Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.
Franziskus dx
Franziskus dx
II/5+
The magnificent Valle di Tures still conservers its typical South-Tyrolean charm, far-removed from the modern city stress. The valley as an ideal background to Franziskus, the icefall which is marked by a first steep section and it's two drips, which...


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