Vertigine di Porcellana - Gran Paradiso
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Alpine Ice Tour
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Vertigine di Porcellana
Planetmountain
Beauty
By
Alpine Ice Tour
Orientation
E
Height
1800m
Difficulty
II/3 (D+)
Route
Vertigine di Porcellana is a great classic, much repeated as it is almost always in condition.The icefall receives the sun for circa 1.30 hours and is recommended when there is little snow or the snow pack has settled since, like all the others in the entire area, it is fairly dangerous! Despite its grade, the central pitch is fairly demanding with a section of 90° ice. The first 30m pitch s circa 60/65° and ends with a bolt belay on the left. Pitch 2 is 40m long and climbs 80/90° ice and finishes with a belay beneath a rocky spur. Pitch 3 is 20m long and climbs 70/80° ice to a bolt belay on the right.
Getting there
From Cogne drive to Lillaz. Access
From the car park at Lillaz walk along the cross country piste on the hydrographic left of Valeille and then continue along the path. Walk past the enormous boulder and past four icefalls to reach a gully and the icefall. Reach the base of the icefall as best possible (1 hour 10 minutes). Descent
Abseil descent. Gear
Normal ice climbing gear.
From Cogne drive to Lillaz. Access
From the car park at Lillaz walk along the cross country piste on the hydrographic left of Valeille and then continue along the path. Walk past the enormous boulder and past four icefalls to reach a gully and the icefall. Reach the base of the icefall as best possible (1 hour 10 minutes). Descent
Abseil descent. Gear
Normal ice climbing gear.
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Beauty
By
Alpine Ice Tour
Orientation
E
Height
1800m
Difficulty
II/3 (D+)
Route
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