The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

348
Routes in archive
Attese disattese
Attese disattese
I/5
Beautiful and slender free-standing drip first ascended after the first repeat of “Cohésion zero”. If the drip is too precarious, it is possible to protect the start using the plants on the side.
Super Stridente
Super Stridente - Cima delle Cengie
IV/6
Super Stridente climbs the Tridente directly in a truly spectacular setting.
En attendant Marlier
En attendant Marlier
5/III
Long and demanding icefall which usually has a drytooling start graded M7+. In 2009 a column of ice came into condition along the entire rock face, and the climb was therefore formed completely.
Missione compiuta
Missione compiuta
5/II
Nice sustained drip which forms to the right of the Mission Impossibile cave
Alla ricerca del Nador
Alla ricerca del Nador
4/II
Pleasant and short icefall which varies from a slab start to a free standing finish.
La valse à trois manches
La valse à trois manches
5/M5/II
Short-lived and varied icefall which rarely comes into condition. La valse à trois manches is the most obvious of the three drips and is characterised by a mixed section to exit behind the curtain.
La stangata
La stangata
III/5+
Climb the drip for circa 30m to where it changes angle. Belay in a niche to the left. Continue for a further 30m to reach the narrowest section of the icefall, where a belay is located with peg and bolt.
Alta tensione
Alta tensione
II/5+
The route takes a line on the extreme righthand side of the drip. After a brief 7m vertical start follow a ramp right to the base of the vertical section. Climb another 5 or 6 meters and belay protected from...
Leben ist jetzt
Leben ist jetzt - Reintal
IV / M7+ / ice 80/90 degrees
The first pitch starts 10m to the left of the route "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The pegs are clearly visible on this first section, and the first belay is shared with "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The second pitch climbs left above the...
Per Leila
Per Leila - Cima delle Cenge
III/6+
Beautiful icefall with a demanding first pitch which climbs a corner broken by a roof and hanging drip. The second pitch is somewhat easier and climbs a finishing hanging drip up a section of 95° ice.
The Prophet
The Prophet - Cima delle Cenge
III/5
Beautiful 20m drip, tends to be very slender at the base. Located to the left of Eros.
Eros
Eros - Cima delle Cenge
II/4
Easy icefall with a series of easy 80° steps located to the right of The Prophet.
Mello's Moon
Mello's Moon - Val di Mello
III/5+
Fun icefall which rarely comes into condition, marked by a thin drip which descends down the dark compact granite.
Gondo Gully
Gondo Gully - Gole di Gondo
II - M4 - 4
The ice gully forms in the large cleft on the Parete Nascosta to the left of the summer rock route Madame Babette. The route climbs up interesting mixed sections and the crux 4th pitch climbs through an overhang. Three of...
Burgsteinfall
Burgsteinfall - Ötztal
WI5/6
The Burgsteinfall is a very popular icefall in the Ötztal, ideal to get a feel for 6 grade ice. The Burgsteinfall is one of the most popular ice climbs in the Ötztal thanks to its easy access and the...
Hängende Gärten
Hängende Gärten - Sellraintal
WI6
First ascended by Tyrolean ice climbing legend Andreas Orgler, Hängende Gärten is the classic ice fall in Tyrol, fullstop. An important chapter in Tyrol's ice climbing history was written in 1988 when Orgler made the first ascent and the...


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