The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

331
Routes in archive
Klassischer Renkfall
Klassischer Renkfall - Kaunertal
WI4+
The high lying Renkfälle offer an impressive, breathtaking alpine ambient and almost a dozen icefalls ranging from WI4 to WI6 are located within a stone's throw of each other. The large variety on offer and the alpine environment close to...
Krönung
Krönung - Zillertal
WI6
Long and serious icefall which offers some of the finest ice climbing ever. Watch out for falling ice on pitch 3. Exact timing is crucial for a successful ascent as ice seldom forms along the entire line. Do not underestimate...
Rêve Caché
Rêve Caché - Pointe d'Androsace
5+ MR 4c
A logical, varied, technical, long and demanding route. This difficulties can vary considerably depending on the conditions and with its 700m in length it can be regarded as a mini grand course. The first section is a winding couloir with...
Inattesa sorpresa
Inattesa sorpresa - Rocce della Suer
II,4+
Great route, incredibly still unclimbed, hence the name "Unexpected surprise". This icefall is destined to become an instant classic. 60m ropes are needed (unless you want to split the second pitch and make an akward ice belay). It is worth...
Cassiopeo
Cassiopeo - Val Lasties - Sasso Pordoi
III,5
Stupendous icefall in beautiful, completely sunny surroundings.
Impatience
Impatience - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5
Pleasant ice fall in beautiful setting. Cross the river via a fixed rope, then climb the steep wall to reach a splendid section of cauliflower ice which makes this route unique. The crux pitch can be avoided by climbing to...
Cascade Chantriaux
Cascade Chantriaux - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5/5+
Cascade Chantriaux is the longest ice fall on the sector opposite Tete de Gramusat. Although somewhat discontinuous, the second pitch climbs a splendid free-standing drip. Unfortunately it rarely forms completely, and the upper section is often not in condition as...
Over The Top
Over The Top - Vallée de Freissinières
III/6+
The hardest pure ice route up the wall. The second pitch of "Over The Top" takes a direct line up the large 40m column, and this is then followed by a shorter drip.
Gramusat Direct
Gramusat Direct - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5+
Gramusat Direct is a beautiful and logical line, a true classic. Unlike its name suggest, the seven exciting pitches weave their way though the wall in search of the easiest way up. Three bolts on the second pitch protect...
Geronimo
Geronimo - Vallée de Freissinières
IV/5
Together with Au-delà des ombres this is the longest outing on the entire face. The route follows a interesting series of walls and free-standing drips. This beautiful vertical journey is never excessively demanding and usually climbs plenty of ice. The...
Au-delà des ombres
Au-delà des ombres - Vallée de Freissinières
IV/5
Au-delà des ombres is a beautiful 12 pitch outing, never extreme, which climbs an interesting mix of ice walls and snow fields. From the top of Happy Together the route traverses right (at times mixed M4/5) to reach the wide...
Happy together
Happy together - Vallée de Freissinières
III/4
Happy together is the streak located in a sort of gully on the extreme lefthand side of the Tete de Gramusat. It shares the same start as Ice Pocalypse, then breaks off right when this divides into two.
Ice Pocalypse
Ice Pocalypse - Vallée de Freissinières
III/4
Ice Pocalypse is the streak located in a sort of gully on the extreme left of the Tete de Gramusat. It shares the same start as Happy Together, then breaks of left when this divides into two. Pocalypse is normally...
Cascade des Viollins
Cascade des Viollins - Vallée de Freissinières
III/5/5+
Splendid drip located opposite Les Viollins. Generally climbed in 4 pitches, first up a wide varied sheet, then a beautiful free-standing drip and finally up an easier and less exposed streak. Every now and then another parallel drip forms on...
Fracastorus
Fracastorus - Vallée de Freissinières
III 3+
This is the first icefall you come across upon entering the Freissinières valley and it is also an ideal introduction to the area. This mid-length route is 5 pitches long and climbs moderate angled ice (max 70°/75°) before a short...
Fallo di Plutone
Fallo di Plutone - Valnontey - Cogne
II/4
Beautiful and fun icefall despite its rather short length. Climb the first 80°/85° drip and belay on the right (bolt). The second 55/60m pitch leads to a bolt belay in a small cave, or to the left on two old...


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