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San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
13/06/2024 - Events
San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) to host Piolets d’Or 2024
The 2024 edition of the 'Piolets d’Or, the prestigious mountaineering award, will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, Italy, from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
11/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project
With their ascent of Aletschhorn earlier today, Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel have embarked on their project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps. The pair will travel from one mountain to the next...
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in...
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy
On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was...
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all...
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70°...
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley...
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb...
Ski mountaineering giant Denis Trento perishes in Italian Alps
06/05/2024 - Alpinism
Ski mountaineering giant Denis Trento perishes in Italian Alps
The Italian mountain guide and former ski mountaineering champion Denis Trento perished on Friday at the age of 41 on the north face of Testa del Paramont in Valle d'Aosta.
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
Epaule Sallière North East Ramp first known ski descent by Fay Manners, Anna Tybor
On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across...
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.