Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy

I started ice climbing a few years ago and it's a great passion of mine. The Enghe Valley is a magical, fascinating place that has provided me with some cold but wonderful days in the past. The solitude of the valley, the strangely shaped lines, sometimes enclosed, sometimes huge ice walls... it's never ordinary up here.

At the beginning of this winter, Samuel Straulino and I ventured out in search of something climbable and in good condition, and our choice fell on Stelle e Lucciole (Stars and Fireflies). In my opinion, one of the most beautiful ice climbs in the valley. Our curious eyes, both on the way in and out, constantly scanned the walls, searching for something that you sometimes imagine might exist, but then it doesn’t. With a bit of imagination though I caught sight of a potential new route. Samuel and I discussed it briefly, took a few photos, and promised we’d return as soon as possible, perhaps waiting 15 days or so in the hope that the ice would grow a bit.

On 22 January 2025 we returned, armed with all the necessary gear including a drill and a few bolts. Samuel led the first pitch, using a few pegs and cams to reach the belay 30 metres higher. This pitch is mostly on rock, though halfway up a thin crust of ice helped with the most pumpy move. I started the second pitch, climbing past a snow-covered slab to reach the drip. A couple of challenging moves and I was at the belay on ice screws, to the left of a more vertical wall. It’s 35 metres of truly fun climbing, but it requires due care and attention. Samuel reached me at the belay, and after breaching the short wall, he quickly reached the top — an easy 30 metres. We set up a bolted belay, abseiled 60 metres on our ropes to the first belay, and from there another 30-metre rappel deposited us back on the ground.

Overall, the route's difficulty is moderate, but the line is very enjoyable, a perfect combination with the other icefalls nearby if the area is overcrowded. I’d say it’s within reach of many climbers, and that pleases us: the idea that it might become a classic is exciting Since the route is next to the famous Anche l’Orco va in vacanza (Even the Ogre Goes on Holiday), the name came easily.

While packing up our gear, we admired the incredibly strong Cristian Casanova leading his route I Tre Orchi (The Three Ogres), a true masterpiece and far harder than our creation.

Thanks to Samuel Straulino for sharing this adventure with me. As Izaak Walton said, "Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter." I’d add that it also makes it easier…