Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety

The southwest coast of Sardinia, which has always come second compared to the extremely famous east coast, seems to be gaining popularity of late. It could just be out of curiosity, or the desire to try something new, the fact of the matter is that many shown an interest in climbing here and write to me about the state of the bolts at the crags, having heard that in some areas there are problems associated with the type of stainless-steel that was used. I generally reply to all messages, but perhaps a summary could be useful that describes the current state of affair and indicates where to get all the necessary information. This article concentrates on the coast and doesn't explore too far into Iglesiente's inland crags (Domusnovas and Fluminimaggiore). To make things easy I'll list the crags from south to north by municipality, namely Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua. Compared to a few years ago, when those who visited this area came essentially for Masua, there are now many more crags on offer.

GONNESA
Capo Giordano
A new crag that includes both trad and sport routes. This basalt cliff is highly exposed to the elements but scenic and evocative. The area is stunning, especially in spring. Pay attention to the state of the anchors and friction conditions, which are extremely variable: it is impossible to climb here in stormy weather or humid conditions. Information is currently available only on Maurizio Oviglia's social media pages.

Superquartz
A very popular, new crag located right above the town of Gonnesa. Pleasant and well-bolted climbs on a surprising quartzite. Good holds and rounded overhangs, but also many easy routes. New 316 stainless-steel gear. Information on pietradiluna.com or planetmountain.com

Muro Di-Vino
An old style wall equipped in the eighties and completely restored in 2023. New 316 stainless-steel gear; the climbs are on stunning gray limestone, ideal for those who love technical routes. Information on pietradiluna.com and on the Villaggio Normann website

Metropolis
This cave was also equipped in the mid-nineties and subsequently abandoned. In 2024 it was completely restored and several new routes were added. Technical and overhanging climbing, with some climbs still open projects. Access is a bit laborious but the routes are wonderful, well worth the effort. Information on Maurizio Oviglia's social media and on the Villaggio Normann website.

Omega
This is another crag bolted in the eighties and completely restored by its "historical" bolter. Several excellently equipped routes, old-school style on perfect rock. Access from the Villaggio Normann. Information on Gianluca Piras' social media (outdoorsportsardegna).

Monte Onixeddu
A crag that dates back to about twenty years ago, in the hinterland of Gonnesa, not re-bolted, but relatively safe. Currently not too popular. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

IGLESIAS
Masua, I torrioni
A very particular crag above Nebida, with some restored climbs and others not yet rebolted that date back to about 30 years ago. It is still worth a visit for the view and the beauty of the rock, practically marble. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Masua, Baila con Daphne
This crag also dates back to about 25 years ago. The gear is still good despite being in 304 steel, but on some routes the anchors need repositioning. French belays, should be replaced. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Masua, Wild Ca Dapria
A beautiful crag, unfortunately equipped with gear deemed at risk, namely 304 grade stainless-steel. Rebolting has been announced several times, but at the time of writing nothing has been done yet. I do not recommend climbing here. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Masua, Castello dell’Iride
A historic and very popular crag. Over the years many routes have been rebolted, but there are still some routes that are bolted with old gear. Overall quite safe, pay more attention not to the rusty bolts but to the 304 grade bolts (usually glue-in) and old belays. Information on planetmountain.com and in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Masua, Zoolook
To the left of Castello dell’Iride, this crag was completely restored in 2023 with the addition of various new pitches. Slab climbing. At present there is no topo.

Masua, Pandora
A recent, well-bolted addition to the left of Castello dell’Iride. Not very popular at present, it boasts a fine selection of long, beautiful climbs with 316 stainless-steel bolrs. Information on pietradiluna.com and planetmountain.com.

Masua, Gea
Crag still being development (2024), it boasts extremely long pitches (35/40m) on good rock. Never overcrowded, ideal when it is too hot to climb at the other Masua crags. Information on pietradiluna.com

BUGGERRU
Gutturu Cardaxius, Istentales
A very beautiful and popular crag. Not recommended in winter. The insitu gear is dated but can be considered safe. The belays have been reequipped. Currently it is reached in about 15 minutes on foot. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Gutturu Cardaxius, Piazza Pulita
Recently bolted, this is currently not as popular as its neighbour, nevertheless it's an interesting alternative. Information on planetmountain.com

Gutturu Cardaxius Banana Republic
Famous for its spectacular sheet of limestone, at present it is not very popular due to the flood that destroyed the road in recent years. Allow at least 30 minutes on foot. The gear can be considered safe. Information on Pietra di Luna crag and planetmountain.com

Gutturu Cardaxius other sectors
The other sectors at Gurruru Cardaxius such as Sardus Pater, Acabadora, Hard Disk, Piccolo Canyon etc are practically abandoned and very rarely visited. The gear though is still reliable. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags and planetmountain.

Cuenca del Cabron
A north-facing limestone cave just above Buggerru. Equipped with 304 grade resin bolts, these are currently at high risk of failure; bolts have broken here in the past. At present only two routes have been rebolted. Climbing here is not recommended. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Canyon di San Nicolò
In the Canyon, a few kilometers from the coast and also accessible in summer, there are five or six sectors. The most popular is Ficus Area, where the equipment can be considered relatively safe. Other more recent sectors and at the bottom of the gorge have heterogeneous bolting, sometimes with a mix of metals that has caused the deterioration of some points. The last sector at the top, I Mocciosi, appears to be the safest and with bolting close together. The Grotta dei Nasi Lunghi, with complicated access, is now practically abandoned. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

Muro dei Sogni
Bolted about twenty years ago, this crag provides interesting climbs by access is long and complicated. The path has almost disappeared and practically no one goes there. The gear, although dated, is relatively safe. Information in the guidebook Pietra di Luna crags.

ARBUS
Murru Biancu, Andromeda
A recent granite crag (2024) located in a stunning setting, shortly before reaching Capo Pecora. About ten medium-easy routes, all well bolted. Already very popular and easy to access. Information on planetmountain.com and pietradiluna.com

Murru Biancu, Mikado
Located slightly below Andromeda, access is more complicated although quick. Easy slab climbs and, on the opposite side of the narrow gorge, overhanging crack climbs with distinct cruxes. Well bolted with 316 stainless-steel and non-welded belay rings. Information on planetmountain.com and pietradiluna.com

by Maurizo Oviglia

Bibliography: Pietra di Luna crags.

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