The news
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974 From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
25/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel: 30 4000ers in 10 days Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel climbed 30 fourthousanders during the first 10 days of their XPeaks project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps within 72 days.
24/06/2024 - Alpinism
Via Ferrata at Cortina, Dolomites / June 2024 conditions The Cortina Mountain Guides provide information on the current situation of the via ferratas around Cortina d'Ampezzo (Dolomites). Given the snow up in the mountains, many of the via ferratas are still closed.
21/06/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz frees Persefone Ext (D15) in Italy's Gran Borna cave On 5 June 2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz made the first ascent of 'Persefone Extension', a new extreme drytooling climb in the Gran Borna cave at La Thuile in Italy. 54 meters long and graded D15, the route was...
20/06/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Fred Degoulet and Benjamin Ribeyre complete their Mer de Glace Ultra Traverse The video documenting the circumnavigation of the Mer de Glace in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out over a period of 9 days in July 2022 by French alpinists Fred Degoulet and Benji Ribeyre.
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour...
11/06/2024 - Alpinism
Christian Maurer & Peter von Känel start 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps project With their ascent of Aletschhorn earlier today, Swiss mountaineers Christian Maurer and Peter von Känel have embarked on their project to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000m in the Alps. The pair will travel from one mountain to the next...
10/06/2024 - Alpinism
Ocean to Asgard / Big Wall Climbing on Baffin Island The film Ocean to Asgard which documents the expedition of Jacob Cook, Brownwyn Hodgins, Thor Stewart and Zach Goldberg Poch and their attempt to climb Mount Asgard on Baffin Island.
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19...
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
03/06/2024 - Alpinism
Victor Varoshkin repeats Parallel World (D16) in DTS style in Dolomites, Italy On 01/05/2024 Victor Varoshkin, a mountain guide from Bulgaria, became the first person to repeat 'Parallel World' D16 in pure DTS style. The dry tooling climb is located at crag Tomorrow's World below Marmolada in the Italian Dolomites and was...
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat...
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70°...
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