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Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.
Video: Sea to Summit, a 65-day big wall climbing expedition to Greenland
06/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Sea to Summit, a 65-day big wall climbing expedition to Greenland
Join Jacob Cook, Bronwyn Hodgins, Angela Vanwiemeersch, Kelsey Watts and Zack Goldberg-Poch, along with professional film maker Jaron Pham, as they embark on their 65-day by-fair-means expedition in 2022 to establish new big walls in NW Greenland.
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
29/11/2024 - Book-press
Baunei Sportclimbing 2025, the new guidebook to Sardinia's east coast by Maurizio Oviglia
The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the...
Jacopo Larcher repeats 'Magic Line' in Yosemite
12/11/2024 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats 'Magic Line' in Yosemite
South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher has repeated 'Magic Line' (5.14c/8c+) in Yosemite Valley, California, making the route’s 7th ascent.
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
30/10/2024 - Alpinism
New British climbs on Innaarsuit in Greenland
Last summer a small expedition of British climbers composed of Indie Fallowfield, Ben Kent and Chris Moore established a series of new routes on hitherto unclimbed west face of Innaarsuit, west coast of Greenland. The trio reached the world's largest...
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
28/10/2024 - Climbing
Gola di Mikado, the beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia
The development of Gola di Mikado, a beautiful new sport climbing crag near Capo Pecora in Sardinia, has been completed thanks to a crowdfunding campaign. All the details directly from Maurizio Oviglia, who bolted the routes together with Antonio Iaria...
Dinosaur footprint boulder vandalised below Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) with 'Tourists go home' graffiti
03/10/2024 - Environment
Dinosaur footprint boulder vandalised below Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) with 'Tourists go home' graffiti
A boulder at the foot of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) was vandalised with the graffiti "Tourists go home".
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva
This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of...
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers...
Toby Roberts wins Gold! Combined Boulder & Lead Olympic Champion at Paris 2024
09/08/2024 - Competitions
Toby Roberts wins Gold! Combined Boulder & Lead Olympic Champion at Paris 2024
19-year-old Brit Toby Roberts has won the Combined Boulder & Lead at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
  • Toby Roberts gold, Sorato Anraku silver, Jakob Schubert bronze
  • 1. Toby Roberts 2. Sorato Anraku 3. Jakob Schubert 4. Colin Duffy 5. Hamish McArthur...
  • Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
    10/07/2024 - Climbing
    Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia
    Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to...
    Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
    03/07/2024 - Climbing
    Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
    Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter...
    14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
    22/06/2024 - Competitions
    14 Speed climbers qualified for Paris 2024 Olympic Games
    Budapest OQS has confirmed who will go to the Olympic Games this summer: Yafei Zhou, Aleksandra Kalucka, Rajiah Sallsabillah, Capucine Viglione, Manon Lebon, Leslie Adriana Romero Perez, Beatrice Colli and Wu Peng, Veddriq Leonardo, Amir Maimuratov, Zach Hammer, Reza Alipour...
    La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
    27/03/2024 - Environment
    La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
    The Italian La Venta association reports about its first expedition to explore the Qanaf Cave and depths of the desert plateau of Jabal Samḥān in southern Oman.
    Huge Alaska big wall climbed in winter by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
    11/03/2024 - Alpinism
    Huge Alaska big wall climbed in winter by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
    Over a period of 10 days from 28/02 to 08/03/2024 Polish mountaineers Paweł Hałdaś and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Zimne wojny', Cold Wars, a huge big wall in the Mooses Tooth massif in Alaska.
    Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
    04/03/2024 - Climbing
    Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
    On 28 February 2024 Bronwyn Hodgins of Canada climbed her first 8c+, 'La Rubia' at Villanueva Del Rosario in Spain