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Andromeda, the spectacular new sea cliff in Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the new routing.

Maurizio Oviglia

July 2024

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Letizia Congiu climbing at Andromeda, the new sports and trad area between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora in SW Sardinia

Maurizio Oviglia

The idea of bolting a new crag close to Capo Pecora, with the same wonderful Sardinian granite, was an idea that had been on my mind for a long time. However, it was difficult to find a suitable place that was sufficiently distant from the world-famous classic trad area so as not to "contaminate" it.

Furthermore, many local and visiting climbers had told me that they'd love to climb on that incredible rock, but without being forced to use cams. Someone had already attempted to toprope some routes with improbable rope maneuvers, at times somewhat dangerous.

For many years I've been been convinced (unlike those who have a more radical and univocal approach) that increasing what's on offer and providing everyone with the opportunity to climb in the same places (or in the same area) in their preferred style contributes to maintaining "clean climbing" areas intact.

The Murru Biancu promontory, located between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora, is just a few kilometers away from the classic trad area and I realised it would be perfect, if only I managed to find a small sport climbing area suitable which could be reached without having to use a boat.

Finally in May 2024 I discovered the approach and the suitable wall, which at the moment is comprised of two sectors. The first one is Andromeda, a very beautiful and panoramic 15 meter crag, high enough above the sea to not be affected too much by the humidity and spray. The climbs are beautiful and pleasant. They are all equipped with top-of-the-range AISI 316 bolts (Petzl). The bolting was carried out by Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Goex.

The second sector, Mikado, is located lower down and is access is slightly more complicated. Bolting is currently in progress, and it will only be completed if this crowdfunding is successful. At present there are 3 climbs. Click here to contribute to the crowdfunding: www.gofundme.com/f/capo-pecora-sport-climbing-area

Apart from these crags, there are are also some trad climbs / sectors in the area that we ask remain as such. Likewise, on sports climbs there are no sections where it is necessary to use cams. This reflects our thinking and our desire to keep the two disciplines distinct.

by Maurizio Oviglia