Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia

37 years after the first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia has returned to the Faraglione di Buggerru on the west coast of Sardinia, known locally as "La Vela". This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the most beautiful coasts (and unfortunately also ruined by mines) in the Mediterranean. Published below are the details of the new route established with the mountain guide Marco Bigatti, and the chapter concerning the 1987 first ascent of the tower, included in Oviglia's most recent book "Climbing Postcards" .

The sea beneath our climbing shoes
They say that the Buggerru sea stack is 44 meters high, but how it was measured is unknown.... Back in 1987 we were probably the first to reach the summit. I had been fascinated by this tower ever since 1984, when I first caught sight of it from the top of the Pranu Sartu sea cliff. It looked like a small Patagonian peak, white as snow, jutting out of the Sardinian seabed! Apparently inaccessible, I had dreamed of climbing it for a long time. A few years later I finally organised the assault. In addition to me, the crew included legendary Enzo Lecis (who had the boat), Cecilia, and our adopted son Simone. Enzo, who was the expert sailor (!), took us to the base of the stack, from where we quickly circumnavigated the tower before reaching the conclusion that the start overhung steeply on all sides and that the sea was too rough to anchor our boat. The only line of weakness seemed to be a sharp, west-facing arete, but the start was guarded by an overhang as sharp as a knife. But it was the only possibility. Enzo got as close as he could and I jumped onto the overhang (!), clinging to the edge and immediately injuring my hands and knees. So did Cecilia and Simone when they seconded me. Enzo on the other hand had to stay in the boat and wait for us because it wasn't possible to anchor it anywhere. He was consumed with envy. The next pitch was the sharp arete. I remember that in the middle there was a crack where I placed my beloved Wild Country Friend #2, the one with the red sling (I had 3 in total). Simone was the last to climb and when I reached the belay I asked to him: what about the Friend? I forgot it! Cecilia shrugged her shoulders and claimed it wasn't her fault, she'd climbed before Simone, he was the one who should have removed it! If it hadn't "almost" been my son, I would have strangled him, especially since it wasn't possible to descend from there, and there was no way I could lower him back down. In those days abandoning a Friend, not even trying to get it back, really had to be a matter of life or death! I didn't speak to the evil youngster again for at least half an hour. The final ridge became treacherous, strewn with loose boulders, but two pitches later we were on the summit. Enzo was circling around the stack and as we prepared the abseils on the east face, I shouted down to him to be ready to pick us up. We'd leap from the wall, just above the sea, straight into the boat. The seaside is always a stressful place for mountaineers!
The route, which I called "Il mare sotto le scarpette", the sea beneath our climbing shoes, was never repeated. Actually yes it was, Enzo said that he returned a few days later with a friend, I never knew who. But the cam is probably still up there. Or he got it and pretended nothing ever happened.

by Maurizio Oviglia

KIND OF BLUE
45m – 6a max (5b obligatory)
First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Marco Bigatti
Gear: A 60m rope and 12 quickdraws
A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the most beautiful coasts (and unfortunately also ruined by mines) in the Mediterranean
Getting there: In order to reach the stack either rent a boat or be accompanied from Buggerru (ask for Mormora Tours at the port, modest fee reserved for climbers). The sea must be calm.
The route: Standing on the boat, grab the sharp rock at the start of the route, breach the first overlap and after 5 meters reach the first bolt. If you come by canoe or dinghy, climbing the starting overhang may prove problematic. An easier section follows until the first bealy. From here continue past splendid climbing on wonderful grade 5 rock to reach the arete. From here deal with the crux section (5 meters of 6a) to reach the summit.
Descent: Watch out for the abseils. It is not recommened to make a single abseil; if the ropet gets stuck (this is often the case given the shape of the rock) it will be difficult to get back onto the boat. Instead, abseil 30m from the chain to a belay 1 (2 bolts with stainless steel maillon rapide). Pull the ropes and make a second short rappel to the boat.