New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland

"After all those failed attempts we'd almost lost hope, but finally things turned out for the best". This is the first comment of Italy's Matteo Della Bordella, shortly after establishing a new route on the hitherto unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren in SE Greenland. The Italian forged the line with France's Symon Welfringer and Switzerland's Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter. The four climbers required 4 attempts before succeeding, and all attempts were aborted either due to poor weather or rockfall.

The climb
"The face is beautiful, with fantastic rock. In total the climb lasted 5 days and breaches difficulties up to 7b" explained Della Bordella. "The route is 1200m high, and all 35 pitches were climbed free. We only left belays in-situ, and did not place any bolts. There are many really beautiful pitches int he region of 7a. One pitch is far more difficult than the others: a 7b protected by pecker, really psychological." The four climbers were
granted a very small weather window, which led them to "climb as quickly as possible. That's why we swung leads: only the leader climbed, while the others followed in jumars."

Once back on the ground, the climbers had very little time to rest. With their food supplies now reduced to the bare minimum, they packed their bags, loaded their kayaks and immediately started the long return journey, about 300 kilometers northbound in the Arctic Ocean.

The wall
The wall had previously been identified and attempted briefly by Mike Libecki who, around 2015, ventured to this small part of Greenland. The American climber attempted an approach by boat, then found himself blocked by ice. This complicated journey resulted in only a timid attempt on the actual wall.

Further details will be provided on their return.