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Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts...
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
01/10/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese success on virgin west face of Thui II in Pakistan
Japanese climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki have made the first ascent of the west face of Thui II (6523m) in Pakistan. 'Spider’s Thread' (ED+, M7, A2, 1450m) was climbed alpine style over a period of 4 days...
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
24/09/2024 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have made the first ascent of Yawash Sar, a 6,258m peak in Pakistan's Karakoram climbed via the NW Face. Climbing alpine style, the pair summited on 14 September.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di...
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan....
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of...
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers...
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
30/07/2024 - Alpinism
Tommaso Lamantia summits K2, his first 8000er
On 28 July 2024, Italian mountaineer Tommaso Lamantia summited K2 (8611m). The 42-year-old mountaineer, who is member of the CAI Biella expedition, climbed alone and without supplementary oxygen
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
28/07/2024 - Alpinism
Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima missing on K2
Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima are reported as missing on the west face of K2.
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
03/07/2024 - Alpinism
Hochflachkofel Hexentango climbed by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer
On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974
From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro...
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
09/06/2024 - Climbing
Video: The Disturbing Rise and Fall of Dean Potter
The video portrait of Dean Potter, one of the world’s leading climbers who lost his life on 16/05/2015 aged 43 in a wingsuit accident in Yosemite Valley, USA, together with Graham Hunt.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi west face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed west face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19...
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70°...
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango Tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.

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